Hey guys.

i finally got the computer from autocomputerexchange.com.
I installed it ( i didnt unplug the battery tho.. )

everything seems to work fine.
But THEN.

after a few minutes, something started getting BURNED, i dont know how this is called, but here some pics.

It start smoking, not much but a lil bit. i turned the car off. it smeeled like burned plastic.

I check the part where the smoke was coming from, and there was a little pice of burned plastic.

I dont know what to do now. Should i take the to the dealership? The computer that i got is not programmed correctly?
ideas?

thanks

I would say just change out the coil pack.

Is there only one coil that is burning?

That can happen if the coil is for whatever reason at end of life/failing. But there are certain failures of the PCM that can burn one or more coils up. Some LH car owners have had multiple coils burn up simultaneously when that happened. Basically a coil is only conducting for a fraction of the total time (if you know what "dwell" on an "old school" ignition is, you know what I'm talking about). The average power is the power during it's brief on time averaged over the total time between sparks. It is designed to dissipate that average power. If a coil driver output (PCM) should stick on, or stay on for much longer than normal periods, it overheats and you get what you're seeing.

I'm not saying that's what's happening here, but it could be. Again, it may simply be that that one coil is failing on its own. You could swap that coil with another and see if the one put in that position starts overheating. If so, that would prove that the PCM output is staying on too long (and you'd be sacrificing a second coil to find out).

Maybe do what Stan suggests. Consider getting a new coil, but put the new one in a different position, and move that (old) one to the position of the one that is burning. That way, if that position is going to burn up again, you lose an old coil and keep using the new one.

Are you getting any missing from the engine?

I hope you didn't get a defective PCM.

Yes, is just ONE. is the one on the middle on the right side. On the first picture i put exactl WHERE is burning. Is not exactly the COIL i think. Is on the right side.

Today i took it to the electrician mechanic. He will check it. Hopefully is not the Computer that is wrong. Or maybe thats what BURNED our my OLD (the original) computer, something. So then it will keep burning computers if that doesnt get fix.

The weird thing is that the car now doenst do the RPM thing, going up to 1,500 to 500 rpm. now it stays normal. So i guess is kinda OK the computer, but now this other problem is arising? Not sure.

I will know more today in the afternoon.

The problem is that im in mexico, and it takes a while to send things back to the states, plus is really expensive. Sux.
The dealership refuses to even try to fix it, or to look at it. Jerks.

Hello everybody.

Im going to buy ANOTHER computer, the one from AutoComputerExchange was crap. It didnt work.

So my question is, can i buy a brand new computer, and just install it myslef? Does it need to be programmed at all? I can get a brand new for about $500 USD.

So please let me know if you have any suggestions. If it does need to get programmed, what tools are needed to do that? Is it gonna change the Milage of my car if i dont programme it? are my remote gonna work to unlock my car?

thanks a lot for all your comments and suggestions. You guys rock.

Saludos Cordiales.

ps. does someone wanna buy my computer from autocomputer exchange?

here the numbers.
CHRYSLER 300M MOD.2000 3.5L 6CIL VIN:2C3HE66G8YH410617 P.N:P04896344AB S.N:T81EH1290119ZZ Km:90,919 KM

Gama.

If you are talking about replacing the PCM, then yes, there are special tools needed. The DRB III is necessary to program the PCM to your car. There's also a PIN number that is unique to your car that would need to be obtained from the dealer. Someone with the Factory Service Manual for our vehicles would then have the necessary steps needed for this replacement.

Hello All ..

Finally my car is runing. The computer got fix by a local person. He charged me about $300USD to fix it. Oh well, it works now.
I have some questions, is is normal to have the car shake a lilttle bit when you are idleing? or also when you are on Drive with the brakes on. My car shakes a lil bit, almost nothing.

Also i just notice, but there is a oil leak. Not sure where it comes from, but i notice it because i look under the car, and there is a bar that goes across, so that bar is black wet, so i know its most likley beacuse of an oil leak.

I just change the spark plugs for some bosch 2+ pltinium and also a coil pack, is not the one from chrysler but one that i bough in autozone. Do the work the same as the original ones?

Thanks

Glad you are up and running again.

My car has a slight shake at idle occasionally.

That oil you see on the crossmember of the cradle could be just spilled oil from a recent oil change.

Are you talking about oil being on a bar that is shaped like a rectangle or that is shaped like a circle? Has the car overheated in the past few months?

Here pics of the leak.
This pictures were taken after a night of the car just being stop.








HELP.

What is this leak of?
How much it cost to repair?
Do i need to repair?
Can i put one of those oil leak sealer?

Thanks.

1) Stay away from "sealer in a can" it may temporarily stop a leak, but it will come back worse than before.
2) Gravity will always bring a "leak" to the lowest point, foward motion will make it look like it is from the rear.
Look upward and foward for the source of the leak. Oil cooler lines, filter, pressure sending unit, pan plug all suspects.
3) If no other sources are noted remove the "cover" between the oil pan and the trans. You can see most of the bolts in your pictures. There are a few that you have to look up in the pockets for. Once all are out that cover will fall off (no need to pry) If it is wet inside that cover you may have a leaking rear main seal. Rare but it does happen. If so it is a big deal to fix, engine would need to come out.....

I was going to guess either rear main seal or - hopefully - the rear cam covers (upper rear of engine) which Bob did not mention. If the latter, easy to fix - remove rear cam covers covers (two bolts I think) and replace cover gasket - these *are* prone to leak. If rear main, engine or tranny would have to come out to fix like Bob said. I agree with Bob (though I am not as reluctant to use additives for certain problems like he is in general ) on not using a chemical stop-leak .