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 Post subject: lock actuator on all 4 doors
PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 3:06 am 
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are there actuators on all 4 doors?
when i lock or unlock the doors thay all make a terriable noise, and thay do not unlock when i use the remote


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 3:28 am 
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Model Year: 2002
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yes there are actuators in all the doors. On my 2000, all four have failed---3 replaced under warranty and one I replaced myself. If you're handy, you can do it yourself. You have to remove the door panel. It's a bit difficult to reconnect the linkage to the new actuator. I think the parts are probably around $75 or so. Check around in the buy/sell forum for our recommended suppliers for the best price.



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 6:13 am 
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Make sure your remote batteries are good, or just replace them. A few weeks ago, the locks on one of my Concordes started acting really screwy and making noises when using the remote. On a hunch, I replaced the remote batteries, and they've been working fine ever since. I realize that your latches may in fact be bad - but thought I'd mention the remote battery thing just in case - would be a lot cheaper if so.

Do your locks make noise whether using the remote or the door buttons? If they make noise either way (i.e., not only with using the remote), then - yeah - the latches need to be replaced. It could be that you need to do both - replace some latches (for the noise) and replace the remote batteries (might fix the problem of not unlocking with the remote - do they unlock when using the door buttons?).



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PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 7:40 am 
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The doo latch/accuators will run you closer to $100 each from your local dealership. If you actually have all 4 bad and are handy, you'd definitely save yourself 4-6 hours worth of labor the dealership is going to charge you.

Depending where you are from, maybe another member could help you out??



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PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 7:46 am 
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On my 2000 M, the driver's door unlocks with a single push of the remote and the other 3 unlock if I push the button twice.



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PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 8:39 am 
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:gripper I'd be upset if all four of mine had failed. An 2¢ part inside the unservicable actuator is the weak link.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2007 10:04 pm 
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If you could get the part, it would be serviceable. A plastic gear strips and the motor just buzzes when it hits the dead spot. Wonderful heavy duty design.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 9:03 pm 
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My 2000 300M has the same problem in the passenger's side front door. When locking or unlocking the door it makes the most god-awful screeching noise that I've ever heard. The first time it happened was when I was getting out of work when I was on midnights. I pulled out of the parking lot and when I got my speed up a bit they automatically locked, it shrieked and I almost put the car into a field.

I'll have to take a look to see how much work it'd take to replace it myself.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 8:06 am 
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Looking at the gear, would it be possible to just advance the gear so the worm gear would contact at a different spot? I don't know how far the gear turns to lock and unlock. If it is only turning the gear 180 degrees or so it would seem that would fix it until the other side wore out.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 8:11 am 
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coloradoEd wrote:
Looking at the gear, would it be possible to just advance the gear so the worm gear would contact at a different spot? I don't know how far the gear turns to lock and unlock. If it is only turning the gear 180 degrees or so it would seem that would fix it until the other side wore out.

I believe when he took this actuator apart, it was in a way that it wasn't meant to go back together.



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 9:41 am 
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I replaced two actuators on my 2000 M. They both went out on the same day and at the exact same time. They made a really loud high screeching sound. After taking them out, the nylon gears that you see in the above pics were in fact stripped. Both went bad exactly at the same time, weird. Replaced them and problem solved.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2008 5:03 pm 
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Bump up and a question!

My drivers door is innermittantly not working. Sometimes I'll hit the fob and it'll unlock, more times than not it will not. I am then forced to use the key to unlock the door from the outside. The inside door lock switch (like a power window switch) doesn't work either. Only way to lock car is to hit this switch to LOCK, and then manually push down the lock itself.

If it works sometimes, and not others (it's been like this since Thanksgiving!), I'm starting to think that maybe it's simply a loose wire connection to this actuator. I hear NO ODD NOISES. When it DOES work, it's totally normal. Wouldn't I hear grinding if the gear is stripped like the one above?

Any thoughts on this?

How hard is removing the door panel? I have to disconnect the drivers side speaker anyway (it's blown) while I'm in there.

Also, could I simply swap out a rear door actuator if it is infact bad?

Thanks



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2008 7:17 pm 
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TLS wrote:
How hard is removing the door panel? I have to disconnect the drivers side speaker anyway (it's blown) while I'm in there.
Thanks

There are some write ups on the door panel removal. Even easier access for members in the knowledgebase.

Front door speaker removal does not consist of the removal of the door panel. You just removed the grille and there it is, accessible for removal.



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 12:10 am 
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grayslater wrote:
TLS wrote:
How hard is removing the door panel? I have to disconnect the drivers side speaker anyway (it's blown) while I'm in there.
Thanks

There are some write ups on the door panel removal. Even easier access for members in the knowledgebase.

Front door speaker removal does not consist of the removal of the door panel. You just removed the grille and there it is, accessible for removal.


Yeah, after I typed I realized that door panel and speaker replacement are two separate operations.

I was originally a member, but I guess I never re-upped. I gained a lot of info from being a member, just never really got into it much. Only visit when there is a problem! :oops:


Any other thoughts as to the drivers side lock not working when it feels like it?



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 12:40 am 
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TLS wrote:
Any other thoughts as to the drivers side lock not working when it feels like it?

I guess you'll just have to get in there and do some troubleshooting?? Look over physical connections, wiggle some wires, and get your hands dirty. :) Sorry, I don't have any other specifics for you.



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