I am getting P****d. My rear door lock actuator/solenoid just start buzzing when locking. So far I had the left rear door solenoid replaced, the driver's door replaced twice and now the right rear is giving problems. They obviously are using an inferior part source for this actuator. And now its out of warranty and may not be covered. These little things are frustrating but overall its still a great car.<br><br>EZ <p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://pub88.ezboard.com/ueasyrider300m.showPublicProfile?language=EN>EasyRider300M</A> at: 10/15/02 11:27:21 pm<br></i>

I guess you didn't go for the extended warranty then? I know you were interested for a while. <p></p><i></i>

Sorry to say, but if it is out of warranty (depending how far out)<br>you are pretty much on your own. I change those alot. You are correct in saying the are inferior. The lowest bid gets the job. If you don't use that door much, you can always remove the panel and unplug the electrical connector. The lock will still work manually. Just an idea. <p></p><i></i>

how difficult is it to change it myself? I would rather do it than waste time at the dealer. How long does it take to change it. <p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://pub88.ezboard.com/ueasyrider300m.showPublicProfile?language=EN>EasyRider300M</A> at: 10/16/02 7:02:46 pm<br></i>

From start to finish, it takes me about a half an hour to do.<br>Removal of the door panel is pretty straight forward. Undo the screw in the armrest and I think there is one under the door handle. There are also some screws on the bottom of the panel. Grab a loose part of the panel and give a quick and firm yank! It will sound like the door is breaking in half, but it is the clips that are releasing from the door. Sometimes you will break a clip or to. No big deal to replace. After freeing the panel, pull back only a few inches so you can release the<br>door handle actuator rod from the handle. Be very careful here.<br>If you break the clip, you will need an entire door panel!!!!!<br>The handle cannot be replaced seperatley. Unplug the electrical connectors and put door panel aside. (Make sure the window is in the "up" position before panel removal.)<br>The actuator has 3 torx head bolts holding it in. They are located right near the latch of the door (where it latches on to the body.) First, reach in and unplug the actuator, and release the actuator rods, 3 of them I believe. Unbolt it and pull it out. Gotta be a little bit of a contorsionist, but it comes out. By the way, after panel removal, pull back the water barrier. First time it always looks scary. Not really a big deal though. Just take your time and be gentle with the plastic. Hope this helps. Let me know how you make out. <p></p><i></i>

thanks for the descriptive reply. I probably wont get to it for a while but I think I could handle it. <p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://pub88.ezboard.com/ueasyrider300m.showPublicProfile?language=EN>EasyRider300M</A> at: 10/17/02 2:05:30 pm<br></i>

I've had a buzzing door lock on my Dakota for about 2 years, it's still working and only a little annoying when unlocking not when locking. Keep forgetting to get it fixed when in for service. <p>THE ONE WHO DIES WITH THE MOST TOYS WINS01 LHS all the toys,Steel Blue/Light taupe,Calif. Dream Wing </p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://pub88.ezboard.com/b300menthusiastsclub.showLocalUserPublicProfile?login=jab02lhs>jab02lhs</A> at: 10/18/02 10:53:03 pm<br></i>

Just had my driver's door solenoid replaced, my first out-of-warranty repair, at 39K. $196. Hope I don't regret not buying an extended warranty . . . .<br><A HREF=http://btjdesign.com/300m><img src=http://btjdesign.com/300m/denverm.jpg width=204 height=92 alt="Brent's 300M" border=0></a> <p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://pub88.ezboard.com/b300menthusiastsclub.showUserPublicProfile?gid=denverm>denverm</A> at: 11/16/02 4:59:18 pm<br></i>

I may have to learn how to replace it myself. One of the members says once you are familiar changing it, you can do it in about a half hour. I believe the part is about $60--so it pays to be mechanically inclined. <p></p><i></i>

Replaced my first solenoid this evening (drivers door). Overall it wasnt that hard to do. Bear in mind that I was working outdoors in the dark with a flashlight in 35 degree weather. I got the whole thing done in prolly 45min to an hour.<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :headbang --><img src=http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rpowelljr/headbang.gif ALT=":headbang"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br><br>Finally! no more "bzzzzzzzzzzztttt" I am a patient man, but that was getting seriously annoying. The part cost me $81 + tax. (Other dealers wanted as much as $97.50) <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :eek --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/eek.gif ALT=":eek"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br><br><br>'99 Deep Slate over Agate; nonPHP; chrome razors; 66k.<br> <p></p><i></i>

Anybody got the P/N for the door panel clips handy. I know it was posted at one time, but I cannot find it. I have a buddy who is going to a parts dealer and I want to see if he can pick me up some.<br><br>Thanks<br><br>chris north <p></p><i></i>

Easy - $50!?!.. damb, well as least now I know for the future.<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :thumbsup --><img src=http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rpowelljr/thumbsup.gif ALT=":thumbsup"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> Anyway I believe I printed out the instructions from one of the threads somewhere on this board. If I cant find the thread again I will retype it here from my printout.<br><br>I didnt have to replace any clips, but it was a pain unsnapping the clips from the broken motor. I have fairly large hands so that didnt help. Oh, and I would recommend doing it in the daylight cause moving the dambed flashlight every 15 seconds so I could see what the hell I was doing was the biggest obsticle.<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :doh --><img src=http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rpowelljr/doh.gif ALT=":doh"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <p></p><i></i>