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 #379838  by LUNAT1C
 July 16th, 2019, 9:59 pm
Now that Carlisle has come and gone, time to order parts and watch the weather (thunderstorms every day since coming home so far...).

Just want to confirm that these are the correct parts. Evap is the “from 1/09/02” version since the car rolled off the line on 4/04/02. Rockauto doesn’t list multiple expansion valves from Four Seasons.
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Originally I was going to leave the seats in for this, but with the dash out its a good time to apply some sound dampener. Carpet will come out and dampener will go down... and front door speaker wiring will be re-run... might as well take advantage.
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 #379839  by adu1982
 July 16th, 2019, 10:02 pm
LUNAT1C wrote:Now that Carlisle has come and gone, time to order parts and watch the weather (thunderstorms every day since coming home so far...).

Just want to confirm that these are the correct parts. Evap is the “from 1/09/02” version since the car rolled off the line on 4/04/02. Rockauto doesn’t list multiple expansion valves from Four Seasons.
48745950-2C10-40E5-92EE-D0904B249C1E.png
E23CAC5C-274B-431B-82B8-2DF950838040.png
Originally I was going to leave the seats in for this, but with the dash out its a good time to apply some sound dampener. Carpet will come out and dampener will go down... and front door speaker wiring will be re-run... might as well take advantage.
Sounds about right for the parts and the dampening. Thats what I did for the LHS when I did the first dash swap.

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 #379909  by LUNAT1C
 July 19th, 2019, 10:47 am
Goodbye, $200. We hardly got to know each other, but you're going to good, cold, cause.

Parts ordered. The Amazon listing for the seal kit came down, but a general Google search found it from a Mopar parts warehouse for less money before shipping and taxes. Should have everything sometime next week. Hopefully the weather holds next weekend.
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 #379949  by LUNAT1C
 July 23rd, 2019, 8:42 pm
Evap parts arrived, but the job has to wait a few weeks. I had to order the seal kit on eBay, which appears to be using horseback for shipping as the estimated delivery date is 8/19. Was hoping for good A/C for the Dream Cruise, but I guess not. Oh well.
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 #379968  by cos1776
 July 24th, 2019, 10:20 pm
Sent you a PM regarding the seal kit.

John
 #379995  by skinnyg
 July 25th, 2019, 11:54 pm
ggariepy wrote:Honestly if you're going to go to all the trouble anyway I would swap out the compressor, hoses and the condenser, too. I don't know if you have done these repairs recently or not, but on a 19 year old car I would expect compressor seals to be on their way out. The clutches don't last forever. And being that you're with me here in the land of salt, the condenser has gotten its fair share of salt spray over the years and will begin to slowly corrode over time. Being aluminum, it doesn't happen fast, but there's not a lot of work involved in changing the condenser, and you're already going to have the refrigerant discharged.

That way you start all over from a known condition with all the parts. Depending on how long you plan to keep the car the stuff is cheap spread out over time. You've got a show winning car, not a beater like mine, so it's probably worth doing.

It looks like you can do the compressor, condenser and hoses for under $300 more at RockAuto.com.
Are you serious? So he has an AC problem, just replace EVERYTHING in the entire system? On these cars if something works dont dont mess with it. The stock compressors are pretty good, the stock parts are pretty good, myself if mine went bad I would rather have a used one than a junk chinese rebuilt autozone or rockauto one. Yea I would probably have a heater core on stand by just in case, but the factory ones are way more robust than the aftermarket ones. I would rather put a used starter or alternator on a LH body rather than used reman chinese junk.
Thats like saying oh I have a power steering whine, go ahead and replace the pump, lines, rack, tie rods, column, steering wheel .. Yea that should fix it


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 #380043  by LUNAT1C
 July 28th, 2019, 8:37 pm
Almost everything is now here. Just ordered sound deadener to put behind the dash while it’s out. Evap, o-ring kit, expansion valve, drier, and seal kit are here, pictured below. Second Skin Damplifier Pro should be here Wednesday, hopefully enough to do the firewall and most of the floor. I’ll spend the week cleaning up the basement in the hope of finding the black seatbelts that I got a couple years ago and swap them in while everything is easy to get to. I’ll get the car evacuated early Saturday morning and hopefully have it all buttoned up Sunday night with the new AC parts, Damplifier Pro installed, and seatbelts if I can find them. Hoping these are all the right parts. I noticed the difference between evaps of early cars and late cars is some block was attached to the pipes on the early evaps. This one does not have this block.
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 #380141  by LUNAT1C
 August 1st, 2019, 9:24 am
Also had another thought as I run through the procedure in my head a dozen times a day (getting started Saturday morning, will be leaving the car outside overnight since there isn't room to do this in the garage with the black car in there).

PAG oil. I'm uncertain how much will be necessary. I'll ask the shop that evac's it what their thought is, but my understanding is to add 1oz PAG oil per component replaced. This weekend I'm replacing the evaporator, expansion valve, drier, which adds up to 3oz. of oil. about 9 years ago the condenser was replaced after the wreck because the factory unit was badly damaged (condenser, radiator, upper tie bar, hood all pushed in, upper tie bar kissed the plenum and radiator fans broke the P/S pulley and belt).

Body shop replaced the condenser and recharged the system. I imagine they would have done everything to the letter and their work is very good. Would I be OK simply dropping in the 3oz or should I plan for 4oz? Not sure if it's better to have less oil or more oil.

Oil just gets poured into the yellow service line of the gauges, then pull vacuum for an hour and recharge with two 12oz cans? One thing I'm concerned about is the car hasn't taken a full charge in the last couple of years. Usually takes just 1-1.25 cans even when it's been evacuated. Hopefully replacing these components fixes that.
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 #380144  by FIREM
 August 1st, 2019, 12:19 pm
Total A/C system Oil capacity 5 oz PAG46. Oil is carried thru the system with the refrigerant as a mist and tends to settle in components when not running. Leaks do carry trace amounts of oil out. Excessive oil is a problem, trace low not a big deal.
Here is what I do: Get a bottle of PAG 46 with Dye, (local auto parts store 8oz)
Pour 2 oz into the evaporator prior to installing it.
Receiver drier pour in 1 oz + additional 1/2 oz for a total of 3 1/2 oz(no more then 4 total)
That will cover trace losses over the years having leaks.
Evacuate system (pull good vac for at least 1 hour) Close valves on gauge set, disconnect pump.
Refrigerant capacity 25 oz. Tap a can, connect to yellow line, open can, burp the air out of yellow line by cracking it at the manifold then snug it. Open both can and manifold valves and let pressures equalize. Close high side valve on manifold. Start car, engage A/C to draw last remaining 134a out of the can. Close the blue valve when the pressure is lowest just before the compressor cuts out. Swap to fresh can, charge remaining in thru low (blue) side. May take a while but will take both cans. Charging should also be done with the engine speed at 1000-1200 rpm. This can be done with a feeler blade or paper "shim" between the idle stop screw at the throttle body. Once the pressure equalizes at its lowest, close the valve on the manifold.
Shut the system off, allow the pressure to equalize, both gauges read the same, disconnect the gauges and enjoy the cold air.
If you need more guidance, you have my number......
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 #380147  by In-trepid
 August 1st, 2019, 2:52 pm
When I did mine a year ago, I used the same exact procedure as Bob outlined above. I replaced the suction line as well and added 4 oz. of PAG oil. I found that it will suck the first can of 134a in very quickly. Some people have said that the compressor has to be jumped to get it to run initially, but I didn't find that to be the case. The second can goes much slower, but it should take the full can. In fact most cans are 12 ounces and two cans will leave it an ounce short by the specs. I talked to a guy who was an HVAC tech in Arizona for years and he told me that in the hotter climates they always run the cars about an ounce short and that they seem to cool better that way. It seemed to work well for me.
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 #380148  by FIREM
 August 1st, 2019, 3:14 pm
Forgot to add one last "trick" Second can in a bucket of warm water helps getting in in.
Agree with previous post, a little short on charge is better than an overcharge with 134a systems.
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 #380149  by Sneke_Eyez
 August 1st, 2019, 3:53 pm
Watching this closely as I expect this is what is wrong with Ashley's Pro Am Air Conditioning.

Planning to undertake the project in the next couple of weeks.
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 #380161  by LUNAT1C
 August 2nd, 2019, 9:59 am
So much for planning to apply sound deadener to the firewall behind the IP. I ordered enough Damplifier Pro to have it cover the whole floor of the car and it was supposed to be delivered by Wednesday. 1am last night Amazon claims it could not be delivered because "the business address was closed for a holiday". Yeah, I'm not sure what holiday my single family home was observing at 1 am either. On the phone now, but Amazon logistics says they lost the package. So I'm getting a refund. Car gets taken apart tomorrow and depending on how bad it is to get the dash in and out (time consuming), I don't think it will be coming out again until something else critical fails.

Maybe I can remove the strut tower brace later and apply it on the outside at a later date, I do need to replace my brace eventually since the trans shop jacked the engine up into the brace and damaged it 4 years ago, provided I can find another one that is rustless. I don't think it matters if the deadener is outside or inside, just need to check if it's weather resistant.
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 #380162  by adu1982
 August 2nd, 2019, 12:04 pm
Don't feel too bad about it, unless you do the whole car (doors, roof, etc) hard to really tell. I can't really tell between the LHS /special and the base that much. The LHS just the floor and firewall.
The special has the sticky foil thing, forgot how thick and sound deadener (rubber like) everywhere except doors and roof. In fact the Buick has the whole floor and pillars. Also the special exhaust can still be heard when reved up more than the base.

Then again my wife said I can hear (CENSORED), so who knows. Plus it will smell for a little while.

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 #380164  by FIREM
 August 2nd, 2019, 1:08 pm
There is a fairly decent sound deadening pad on the firewall behind the dash from the factory. Floor, doors, and roof will be the biggest gains in reducing sound levels in the car.
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