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Repair Questions and Answers.

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 #380251  by In-trepid
 August 9th, 2019, 10:36 am
When I did mine, I also replaced the suction line. It sits on the frame and allows debris and water to collect between it and the frame. I read a few posts on both our forum and on the Intrepid forum that people said that the line appeared good, but had very small leaks in the area that the aluminum is oxidized. Maybe worth a check to pull the clamp and lift it up to see if there is any dye in that area that isn't visible when the line is clamped down. Was your evaporator under vacuum when you removed the piece over the pipes? Mine had vacuum on it when shipped. it kind of surprised me a little bit as I wasn't expecting it. Made me feel good that I knew the evaporator was intact with no leaks though.
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 #380253  by LUNAT1C
 August 9th, 2019, 2:47 pm
In-trepid wrote: August 9th, 2019, 10:36 am When I did mine, I also replaced the suction line. It sits on the frame and allows debris and water to collect between it and the frame. I read a few posts on both our forum and on the Intrepid forum that people said that the line appeared good, but had very small leaks in the area that the aluminum is oxidized. Maybe worth a check to pull the clamp and lift it up to see if there is any dye in that area that isn't visible when the line is clamped down. Was your evaporator under vacuum when you removed the piece over the pipes? Mine had vacuum on it when shipped. it kind of surprised me a little bit as I wasn't expecting it. Made me feel good that I knew the evaporator was intact with no leaks though.
I'm not sure what line that is. Is it the line between the drier and front of the car? Or the line between the expansion valve and the front of the car? I didn't see any unusual dye around any of the lines, but there are a lot of wire harnesses down that covering it that I haven't disturbed. I was thinking this morning on the way back to the office that I did not tighten the expansion valve stud by itself before installing the front plate and 10mm nut, only because I don't have an external torx bit that fits. I relied on the nut to tighten everything down.

Plan was to charge again last night and monitor everything I've touched, and I wound up not getting home from the office until 1/4 to 10, so that was out. Tonight I need to reassemble the interior and wash for tomorrow's show. She's been sitting outside for about a week under cover, but it rained hard last Sunday and fiddling with the cover got water on the car... I know, I know, 1st world problems. Also need to vacuum for all the under-dash junk that got dislodged. Yikes.
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 #380255  by LUNAT1C
 August 10th, 2019, 3:47 pm
I ran the rest of that can in after pulling vacuum last night while I put the interior back together. Pressure built to over 50, then dropped to zero over about an hour. Checked around with the UV light and didn't really find much. I checked the two lines running to the front and saw this, which seemed to glow slightly, but I'm not sure if that was dye or just rotted material. Can't tell what's happening here.
IMG_20190809_203400.jpg
Once I got the ATC back in, found the mode was wrong. Diagnostic shows code 24, mode door actuator. FSM says that one is accessible without dash removal. Already saw a thread about rebuilding the contacts. One project after another... And yes, it's plugged in. :lol:
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 #380350  by ggariepy
 August 17th, 2019, 12:29 am
Well, it's Dream Cruise weekend...did you get it fixed?
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 #380356  by LUNAT1C
 August 17th, 2019, 5:25 pm
Not yet. I decided to enjoy the dream cruise rather than futz with the car. Plus some extended family business needs attention (and will continue for the forseeable future). Cruised in it last night with the 4/40 AC (4 windows down, 40 mph... or rather 0.8 mph...) and cruised in my Jeep today with the top off.

New suction line is on the counter and will go in tomorrow, will also pull the mode door actuator to figure that one out. Hoping it just needs the contacts resoldered.
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 #380367  by LUNAT1C
 August 18th, 2019, 8:11 pm
Update: Suction line is replaced. FSM did not state any need to remove the cowl (which I’ve done twice already in the past few weeks), but I found final removal of the old line and installation of the new line was much easier with the cowl out of the way. I checked and rechecked and rechecked and double checked and rechecked, and for good measure checked again each connect I touched for tightness. Interestingly the new 4-Seasons line appears to be longer than the factory line. For now I have not installed the chassis retaining bolt due to difficulty getting it to seat.

Pulled vacuum for 20 minutes. Then let it rest for over 2 hours. Did not lose vacuum in that time. Running the pump overnight to ensure all moisture is pulled out, and then I’ll let it sit while I’m at work.

Some new issues have cropped up. Following the code 24 (mode door actuator) I pulled the actuator out, and soldered the motor contacts similar to a few others here have done. Reinstalled and checked codes again. Now I’m getting code 36 (ATC communication), 24 (Mode door actuator) and 35 (evap temp sensor). I might have had the code 35 all along and didn’t know it as I didn’t know which button to press scroll. 36 is certainly new. I disconnected the ATC fuse in the junction block for 5 minutes per the FSM (FSM stated M1 fuse, but does not elaborate which fuse that is) and recalibrated the system. Still getting those codes. Disconnected the negative for now, will come back to it after work tomorrow. I’ll recalibrate one more time tomorrow to be sure.

Looking up mode door actuator and temp probe prices now. I had a feeling the sensor broke when I pulled it from the old evap and it seemed to separate on itself. Of course I’ll pull the glove box again just to be sure I wasn’t a nincompoop and left it unplugged, before buying a new one.
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 #380370  by adu1982
 August 18th, 2019, 10:21 pm
Robert I have a few sensors. I can send you one if you pay the shipping

Wish I would have known you needed a mode door Friday. The dash donor car in Tallahassee only had 100k miles on it...

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 #380371  by adu1982
 August 18th, 2019, 10:31 pm
Also I think you should still be able to charge without mode door, if you replace the probe. If it is stuck on a certain vent just put your temp probe on that vent.....you should still get somewhat accurate temp readings....

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 #380372  by LUNAT1C
 August 18th, 2019, 11:31 pm
If the sensor is whole (I feel like the large head on mine might have separated when pulling it from the old evap, so I was concerned to start with), I’d be happy to buy one from you. Yes I can recharge without the mode door, I’d just rather not be getting that temp reading from the floor vents. I must of have been blending in some heat on the ride back from Carlisle and the morning ride to the AC shop for evac/recovery for it to have gone to that position and been there when I got back.
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 #380375  by adu1982
 August 19th, 2019, 1:28 am
Pm me your address and I will ship it today. I think 6-7$ for shipping should cover it , I'm gonna put it in a small box.
alexbalescu@yahoo.com family/friends PayPal.

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 #380381  by adu1982
 August 19th, 2019, 9:42 pm
I shipped earlier today. Did you get my pm reply Robert?

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 #380396  by LUNAT1C
 August 20th, 2019, 2:16 pm
I did. Thanks! I'll cover the rest of the shipping cost that was extra today.

Last night I got back to work on the car. I had left the negative disconnected for about 24 hours and had the system sitting on vacuum since I had left for work (ran the pump overnight to pull out all the moisture in the system as I possibly could). It was still holding vacuum last night. I fired it up and ran the ATC diagnostic. Codes 36 and 35 are now gone. 24 (mode door actuator) still present. I don't trust the temperature probe enough to continue functioning long term, so the probe Alex is sending me will sit in reserve. Plus I think the black car needs some AC work as well, so having spares will be very helpful. Thank you Alex!

Plan is to raid the yards Saturday morning, looking for mode door actuators. No idea what to look for to know if one is good or bad, so I'll grab several from the newest cars I can find. No way to check mileage usually as the vehicle harnesses tend to be so hacked up that just connecting the battery terminals doesn't do anything to get power to the BCM of those cars... it'll be a dice roll. Saturday afternoon I'll be helping a good Jeep friend out by detailing his WK's interior for his son to drive while he works on the WJ he bought for the son. Saturday night I'll swap out the actuator and fingers crossed it works. Then recharge, button up the interior, and go to a show Sunday!