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Repair Questions and Answers.

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 #382429  by Katzchen78
 February 24th, 2020, 10:37 am
I have a horrible leak from what seems to be the transmission cooler lines. I have ordered the complete oem lines. They won't arrive until Friday though. I have heard it could be fixed at the clamps. I was thinking maybe as a temporary resolution, as I have to drive my car all week. How difficult is this to do by myself? I will probably have to pay a shop to replace the actual lines. Thoughts?? Also, what clamps should I get?
 #382430  by 2001Intrepid18
 February 24th, 2020, 11:03 am
When mine were leaking all I did was remove the bumper, And look at the lines.It was a solid drip and I found that both of the lines had splits in them before the clamps I trimmed them down with a Xacto knife and put them back on with new clamps. Been fine ever since. 😁 if I lived in Kentucky I’d gladly drive down to help. As for clamps I bought the second smallest set from autozone and used 2 clamps per line so I knew they were snug.
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 #382431  by Katzchen78
 February 24th, 2020, 11:22 am
I have taken my bumper off a couple of times, so I can do that!! I will do this then. I can do that tomorrow night as opposed to waiting all week for the lines.

Thank you so much!
 #382432  by 2001Intrepid18
 February 24th, 2020, 11:36 am
Once you remove the bumper you’ll see the side of the radiator where it’s plastic and there’s a small rubber line for the transmission return remove it and squeeze different areas of it and see if there’s a split if so cut it off as much as possible replace the clamp And put the line back on and make sure the clamp is super snug. Start her up and watch for any leaks 😁 if no leaks button her face back on and driive lol
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 #382433  by Sneke_Eyez
 February 24th, 2020, 11:47 am
The answer depends on where the lines are leaking, but if they are leaking at the connection to the cooler by the radiator, tightening or replacing the clamps and checking the hoses for cracks/splits as Nick mentioned above is a good start. Taking the bumper off is the easiest way to see to do it, though it can be done by just taking the crossmember off as well.
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 #382434  by M-Pressive
 February 24th, 2020, 12:55 pm
I just replaced my clamps this weekend. Went with the fuel injection style. I had smaller leaks from both. So far so good.

I didn’t remove the bumper. Just the cross member and undid the bolts to the fans to get better access to the bottom line.
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 #382437  by Katzchen78
 February 24th, 2020, 3:02 pm
I need to see what size I’ll need, surely it won’t be these clamps since we sell them at my work.... lol Image

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 #382440  by M-Pressive
 February 24th, 2020, 3:29 pm
That style clamp is what leaks.

You need something similar to this. ... tion+clamp

I can post the exact size I bought tonight when I get home.
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 #382441  by dcsally97
 February 24th, 2020, 3:32 pm
My thoughts as well. You want a clamp that won't eat into the hose.
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 #382443  by Katzchen78
 February 24th, 2020, 3:42 pm
Of course it wouldn't be something I could get so cheap and easy at work. lol

Thank you!! Tomorrow we are expecting decent weather here. I want to pick them up on my way home from work then and get into this repair asap. Today sucks.....

It is also a great excuse to FINALLY install my new bumper signal lenses. :)
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 #382444  by M-Pressive
 February 24th, 2020, 5:43 pm
I guessed correct. The link I posted is what I purchased and installed.
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 #382451  by Katzchen78
 February 24th, 2020, 9:11 pm
Awesome!! Thank you so much!

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 #382455  by In-trepid
 February 24th, 2020, 9:32 pm
I have cut back the hoses as Nick suggested and used two fuel injection clamps on each connection. On ne car it worked for a while. On the other it is still working on the top hose, but is getting wet in the area of the lower hoses.

Be aware that there are actually 3 hose lines for the transmission cooling circuit. The first one connects near the top of the radiator (pretty easy to get to). The second hose is a short piece about 8 or 9 inches long that goes from the bottom of the radiator cooling tank to the input of the auxiliary cooler line. This sits under the lower radiator hose and is hard to get to. It has clamps at both ends. The third hose is the return line to the transmission which connects the output line of the auxiliary cooler to the transmission return line. This sits right below the short line and is also tough to get to because it is also under the lower radiator hose. Altogether there four connections that need hose inspections and new fuel injection clamps. The way I would do it requires 8 clamps.

Fuel Injection Clamps: ... 50&sr=8-14
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 #382459  by Katzchen78
 February 25th, 2020, 6:48 am
Thanks! I’ll make sure I get enough clamps.

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 #382472  by LUNAT1C
 February 25th, 2020, 6:01 pm
Just adding my own experience to the pile. 7 years ago I had seen a few drips under the blue car, right where the cooler lines are. The area currently is grimey and wet. I bought new lines, but haven't installed them yet. I'm not sure what clamps it had before, but it has the worm drive clamps now and those are notorious for chewing up hoses. People like to hate the clamps Chrysler uses on its radiator and heater hoses... but I love them simply because they don't chew up the material.

I plan this spring, after moving to our new-to-us house, to clean the area and replace the clamps with the FI style Keith and John posted.

Last year I did the timing belt on the black car. It was never leaking, but I did accidentally discover the upper hose clamp was very loose, enough that I could almost yank the hose off the radiator. Tightened it up and noted that I should do the same clamp replacement on that car as well. It's also the terrible worm drive design...
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