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Repair Questions and Answers.

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 #385861  by bottlebum
 September 19th, 2020, 2:08 pm
There's no doubt about it, my LHS has gremlins.

Haven't received my service manuals, yet, so while I'm waiting, I thought it would be a good idea to post a video, here, to see if anyone else HAD a similar gremlin, and what they did to get rid of it. :lol:

I'm just not sure where to start tackling this starting problem. Anyone have an idea that they'd like to share?

Thanks in advance for any help, and thanks for looking.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orakI74 ... e=youtu.be
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 #385865  by FIREM
 September 20th, 2020, 7:28 am
Wow that is very strange. I would start with the wiring under the master cyl area. Make sure nothing is rubbed thru and or loose. These harnesses near the trans shift cable / rack and may move with the cable.
Never saw one that starts in N but not in Park
 #385877  by bottlebum
 September 20th, 2020, 3:41 pm
Thanks for the suggestion, Bob. I will check the wires you mentioned. Strange thing is that sometimes it will fire right up (not too often). It doesn't always start in neutral.
 #385878  by TrepKing95
 September 20th, 2020, 3:43 pm
I see that check engine light on... do the Key Dance or use a scan tool and tell us the codes. The extended crank leads me to a cam/crank sensor issue, but before we load the parts cannon lets see what codes it has.
 #385900  by bottlebum
 September 22nd, 2020, 11:10 am
TrepKing, I'm not ignoring you. I work a second shift job, and it makes it hard for me to find time to do anything outside of work. I will post any codes as soon as I am able to. Thank you for your help. - Bill
 #385953  by RobNJ
 September 26th, 2020, 6:56 am
Given the extended crank time and how it appears to die slowly, seems like there is a fuel supply issue. If you can borrow a pressure gauge this would confirm.
 #385954  by bottlebum
 September 26th, 2020, 11:31 am
TrepKing95 wrote: September 20th, 2020, 3:43 pm I see that check engine light on... do the Key Dance or use a scan tool and tell us the codes. The extended crank leads me to a cam/crank sensor issue, but before we load the parts cannon lets see what codes it has.
Have been searching for "key dance" instructions, but have had no luck. I'm not sure how to check for codes when it comes to a Chrysler?
 #385955  by bottlebum
 September 26th, 2020, 11:35 am
RobNJ wrote: September 26th, 2020, 6:56 am Given the extended crank time and how it appears to die slowly, seems like there is a fuel supply issue. If you can borrow a pressure gauge this would confirm.
Now, it won't crank at all. Plenty of juice (new battery), but no crank. Started and died a few times, then no crank. That was yesterday. I'll go out right now, and see what happens.
 #385956  by bottlebum
 September 26th, 2020, 11:40 am
Just tried to start the car, and it would not turn over at all. I'm leaning towards it being the ignition switch, but not sure if a failing switch can cause an engine to die?

Also, the climate control display does not work. Can the two problems be related? I wouldn't think so, but you never know!
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 #385959  by hrmwrm
 September 26th, 2020, 5:57 pm
ignition controls a lot of power sources directly and through relays/modules.
have you change around any relays?
if the asd relay is bad, it might cause troubles too.
bottlebum liked this
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 #385964  by LUNAT1C
 September 26th, 2020, 9:16 pm
bottlebum wrote: September 26th, 2020, 11:40 am Just tried to start the car, and it would not turn over at all. I'm leaning towards it being the ignition switch, but not sure if a failing switch can cause an engine to die?

Also, the climate control display does not work. Can the two problems be related? I wouldn't think so, but you never know!
I haven’t seen it happen necessarily but I wouldn’t be surprised if an ignition switch could kill an engine or cause starting issues. The one in my Charger used to leave the ignition on and all the systems running, which was really nice if I was hoping the battery would be dead by morning. (Spoiler alert: I never hoped for that).

Climate display is a common problem. Usually it’s the three large blue resisters on the PCB on the the screen is soldered do. The joints develop micro cracks. The fix is to apply a little more solder to the resistor joints.
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 #385965  by LUNAT1C
 September 26th, 2020, 9:23 pm
bottlebum wrote: September 26th, 2020, 11:31 am
TrepKing95 wrote: September 20th, 2020, 3:43 pm I see that check engine light on... do the Key Dance or use a scan tool and tell us the codes. The extended crank leads me to a cam/crank sensor issue, but before we load the parts cannon lets see what codes it has.
Have been searching for "key dance" instructions, but have had no luck. I'm not sure how to check for codes when it comes to a Chrysler?
It’s pretty simple. Beginning with the ignition in the off position, and without starting the engine, turn the key to ON, then OFF, then ON, then OFF, then ON. Wait a few seconds and the car will chime and display any active codes using the odometer. When it finishes, it will say DONE. Write down each code and then google them to see what they are.
 #385969  by bottlebum
 September 27th, 2020, 1:31 pm
hrmwrm wrote:ignition controls a lot of power sources directly and through relays/modules.
have you change around any relays?
if the asd relay is bad, it might cause troubles too.
I have not messed with any of the relays. Thanks for the tip!
 #385970  by bottlebum
 September 27th, 2020, 1:34 pm
LUNAT1C wrote:
bottlebum wrote: September 26th, 2020, 11:31 am
TrepKing95 wrote: September 20th, 2020, 3:43 pm I see that check engine light on... do the Key Dance or use a scan tool and tell us the codes. The extended crank leads me to a cam/crank sensor issue, but before we load the parts cannon lets see what codes it has.
Have been searching for "key dance" instructions, but have had no luck. I'm not sure how to check for codes when it comes to a Chrysler?
It’s pretty simple. Beginning with the ignition in the off position, and without starting the engine, turn the key to ON, then OFF, then ON, then OFF, then ON. Wait a few seconds and the car will chime and display any active codes using the odometer. When it finishes, it will say DONE. Write down each code and then google them to see what they are.
It was simple! For the curious, here are the codes in the order received:

P 1684
P 0340
P 1289
P 1685

Thanks for your help!
 #385971  by bottlebum
 September 27th, 2020, 1:53 pm
The code P0340 is interesting:

Faulty Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
Camshaft Position Sensor harness is open or shorted
Camshaft Position Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM)

I know for a fact that the timing belt and water pump have never been changed. Maybe I should begin there, and replace the camshaft positioning sensor while I'm at it? Just thinking aloud.
 #385972  by bottlebum
 September 27th, 2020, 2:54 pm
I received two keys along with the car. One is black, and the other is green. Been using the black key. Tried to fire the car up, and no crank, no crank, no crank. Tried the green key, and it fired right up, and ran. Tried again, with the same result, it fired right up. Went back to the black key, and it fired up, but then died. Tried again, and the same thing happened, it fired up, and then died. Switched back to the green key, and like before, it fired right up and stayed running. Needless to say, I took the black key off of my key ring. :shock:
 #385974  by bottlebum
 September 27th, 2020, 4:39 pm
Update:

So, the car consistently fires up and runs. Found out it had something to do with it not liking one of the two keys I've got.

Next thing to do was to check on the acceleration issue that the seller mentioned. He said that the car would die during hard acceleration. I took it for a little ride, and any time I would accelerate quickly, the car would start bucking. If I let up on the gas, the engine would recover, and as long as I accelerated, smoothly, the car would do fine. I took it up to 65mph w-no problems. Before I bought the car, I asked the seller if the fuel filter had been replaced. He said that it had, but I think I'll try to verify that. If it's anything like the breather filter was ...

I'm also wondering if the camshaft positioning sensor might be the culprit? There's too many things that it could be! Just need to keep at it.
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 #385980  by In-trepid
 September 28th, 2020, 11:04 am
The fuel filter is on the fuel pump assembly in the fuel tank. Odds are pretty good it wasn't replaced or that it would even be the issue. This sounds to me like a cam sensor. If it starts missing at about 2300 RPM, that is a dead giveaway. if you accelerate easily, you won't feel the issue until about 70 mph.
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 #385984  by LUNAT1C
 September 28th, 2020, 12:03 pm
Important note on the Camshaft sensor, if replaced, use only OEM Mopar. Chrysler electronics are very sensitive and aftermarket sensors never work. Always use OEM Mopar on all sensors (NGK for spark plugs, NTK for O2 sensors, Mopar everything else).

Check and make sure your sensor and harness connector are clean and securely connected. I had an issue with the passenger upsteam O2 sensor a number of years ago that would throw a code, and cleaning it has kept the code away for about 10 years now.
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 #385986  by Sneke_Eyez
 September 28th, 2020, 12:30 pm
Sounds to me like the check engine codes give you your marching orders.
I'd start there and resolve them first before anything else.
First one (P 1684) doesn't matter - battery disconnected.
Second (P 0340) Cam sensor - OEM ONLY on these - aftermarket like to fail and cause the same or worse issues.
Third (P 1289) Temp sensor - easy to replace, but I'd hold off on this one for now.
Fourth (P 1685) Invalid SKIM key - this relates to your problem with your black v. "green" key. The black key obviously is not a proper SKIM chip key to start the car. Don't use it, it will cause exactly the issues you're having. Chrysler keys were generally black if they had no chip and grey if they had a chip.

As far as the timing belt and water pump? Definitely do them, if the belt breaks it likely means "valve - meet piston!" and "see-ya" to your motor.