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 #395602  by Nickertrip
I got the p0700/p1776 codes on my son's 2003 300m. I took it to a local transmission shop who said he has done 30+ of these transmissions over the years. He replaced the solenoid block with an aftermarket one since he couldn't get one from Chrysler. He also said he put a switch valve kit on the valve body. He said that he enlarged the bore to install the kit. He said this has always worked.

My wife did not get half way home with it and the p0700/p1776 came back and she said it didn't want to shift...motor revved up. We shut if off and then drove it back to the shop.

Owner now tells me it is not the transmission itself, but a possible loose bushing/shifter cable causing the p0700/p1776. I feel like that is BS...I think it shifted fine. I am not sure how to proceed. Could he have gotten a bad solenoid? Should I have him replace it? I am currently out $900 and it still has the same issue. Any ideas on how to proceed?
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 #395603  by FIREM
I call TOTAL B S on the shift cable causing the issue.
1776 is a Torque Converter Clutch Switching issue.
We have seen replacement Solenoid assemblies, even genuine OEM, have issues. One member went thru 4 if I recall to finally get a good one.
Please elaborate on this “switch valve kit” ( first I have heard of this)
This is a good read and maybe even show it to your trans guy

Did they go completely thru the valve body.
 #395605  by Nickertrip
I will ask him what specific kit he is referring to. He mentioned enlarging a bore and installing a new valve and a switch. Says it has always fixed it. He backed off on the shifter malarkey. He is waiting on a response from his distributor network. I am at a track meet now and will update once I get more info.
 #395613  by Nickertrip
I just spoke to the transmission shop owner. He said he found some wires that go to the transmission that were rubbed through and exposed. He cleaned them up and shrink wrapped them, secured them properly, test drove it, so far no issues. I wouldn't be surprised that the shop that installed the new motor didn't secure them properly. That shop was very good until they expanded and hired new guys. I have since switched shops after having to return several times to fix issues.

On these bad solenoids, does the issue happen immediately or is it sporadic? I am wondering if the frayed/exposed wires were the issue all along. I drove it for 100+ miles and no issue. My wife and son both got it to pop the 0700/1776 code when they drove it. He said the solenoid that he replaced had a 2008 date. He said everything looked clean and had no metal at all on the magnet.

I asked about the 'switch valve kit'....he said it was the Sonnax kit that is mentioned in other posts. It involves reaming the bore and installing an oversized plug. He said he has had success for 20+ years doing this.
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 #395615  by LUNAT1C
Frayed wires can cause all kinds of issues. I would be surprised if it just so happened to cause 1776 again, and *only* 1776. I would expect communication errors from a frayed wire.

But, it's not unusual for fraying to happen when shops do major work and don't button it up correctly. That happened to my left downstream O2 sensor when my trans was rebuilt and the trans shop didn't route the harness right. I found the connector laying on the exhaust when an O2 sensor code came up a few months later.

1776 can be sporadic, but once a solenoid has failed it will throw the code relatively reliably. Are you saying they fixed the wires, then you drove 100+ miles with no issues, then your son drove it and it threw the code? The fix might be... not letting him drive it... :lol: only kidding of course.
 #395616  by Nickertrip
I am thinking the same thing regarding the 'The fix might be... not letting him drive it... :lol: only kidding of course.' comment! :)

I drove it 100+ miles after the 1st 0700/1776 go round with no issues...after resetting the codes via the fuse. The next go round, the transmission guy pulled the codes before he replaced the solenoid and it was all over place....0700,1776,1684 and 0562. The last go round after my wife picked it up after the solenoid fix to drive only set the 0700/1776 code. Transmission guy fixed the wires, reset the codes and has been driving it around with no far. I am really hoping he has found the root issue. Only wish he would have noticed the frayed wires before dropping the pan...would have saved $900......

It has been quite the adventure so far. I just don't have any time to try and fix these issues on my own....having triplet boys who are juniors in high school. I need to start a Gofundme page! lol
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 #395618  by FIREM
We have seen wires rubbed thru behind the Master Cylinder that lead down to the transmission. Here’s to hoping that was the issue. Solenoid and valve body history tend to lead us there first however a full visual inspection and wire shake really must be among the first steps.
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 #395622  by TrepKing95
P1776 TCC Solenoid Switch Valve Latched in L/R Position is a "performance" fault not a "circuit" fault. This trouble code sets when the L/R Pressure switch closes when the TCM commands Torque Converter Clutch operation (TCM sees the Low/Reverse Clutch applying not the TCC). A rubbed through wire for the L/R Pressure switch could ground out, sending a false signal that the switch has closed, setting this trouble code.
 #395716  by Nickertrip
The saga continues. After the shop fixed the supposed frayed wire, my wife got the CEL and limp mode driving it home from the shop. We took it back. He installed another solenoid block from another vendor as well as a 'known good' valve body from a low miles car. He said after he drove it, it set the code and went into limp mode. He drove it again later and it was just fine.

He said he will install my original parts and refund me all my money. Although I wished he could have repaired it, it seems like a fair gesture on his part.

Not sure where to go next. He believes it is a wire short or possibly a TCM issue???? I had submitted another question regarding the loose connection at the fuse box. Is it possible this loose/hot wire causes TCM issues? Or, should I take it somewhere else and get a new solenoid put on.

Here is FireM's response to the loose fuse box connection. I will admit that I just tightened it...and didn't clean it up. I will definitely wire brush it now...if you think it may cause these weird issues.

Loose connection at that high power point = High Resistance = High Heat. Strongly recommend disconnecting the terminal, wire brush connections even if they look clean.
All vehicle loads other than the starter go thru that connection.
Be sure to disconnect the ground prior to work.
 #395721  by 135sohc
Several years ago I had this fault show up on my 2003. I do not recall the exact sequence of events that resolved it other than I probably did toss a new solenoid in because they were around $200 shipped at the time, fiddled with the valve body and crossed my fingers that it would stay working.

For the longest time I was in the 'toss a solenoid pack at it and see what happens' camp because they used to be cheap and still available. And putting way too much into the internet where everyone claims they fixed their minivan transmission by tossing a new solenoid at it and leaving the battery disconnected overnight to 'reset it' (which does not work btw)

Given the age of these cars now it should not be ruled out there could be wiring damage and/or loose connections on the transmission and that is something that should be scrutinized heavily before tearing into the transmission again. The most recent fix on the 2003 I did involved replacing both the input and output speed sensor connectors. Externally they looked fine, internally the terminals due to age/mileage had lost their springiness and were not making a solid contact with the terminals on either speed sensor.

Not knowing your level of ability/comfortable tearing stuff apart/tool assortment and if you have a driveway and some ramps to put the car up on. The transmission harness can be removed with the engine/transmission installed. It is a snug fit and when removing the solenoid connector you are going totally by feel. Visually it is obscured from the top, bottom and both sides. Once out of the car and unwrapped it would be easier to locate any frayed wires.
 #395725  by Nickertrip
Thanks for your suggestion. I would normally give that a try, but I have a surgery coming up and will be laid up for a couple months. I will relay your idea to the next shop I take it to.

The trans shop guy decided to leave the latest solenoid and valve body in the car. He didn't want to mess with putting in original parts. In the 20 mile drive home, the p0700 popped again. It went into limp mode when I dropped down to 20mph or so.

Hoping for a miracle, I cleaned/wire brushed the power cable going into the fuses like Firem had suggested. It popped the p0700 soon after.

I have a call in to a local shop that does well with finding electrical issues. Here's hoping he can find and solve it economically!
 #395859  by Nickertrip
Well, the latest shop said he couldn't find any wiring issues that would cause my 0700/1776. He dropped the pan...even though I told him not to....and said it needs a new transmission at the tune of $4200. I said no thanks, put it back together and I will take it home.

Is there anyone near Omaha/Fremont Nebraska who would like a challenge to figure this out? :lol:

Not sure what to do next. The car runs, drives, shifts good and even looks good...but keeps setting the 0700/1776 and going into limp mode. Next best transmission shop is 45 miles away and he said they would have done exactly what the 1st guy did. He said they could do tests on wiring, pcm/tcm etc. ...but couldn't give an estimate on how much that would be...understandably.

Do I buy a solenoid that others have used from Ebay with success and have the 1st transmission guy try that? His 1st 2 solenoids from his supplier didn't solve it.

Otherwise, I think I will have to sell it as a mechanics special...and take the money loss????? Ideas/thoughts?
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 #395860  by LUNAT1C
Sounds like a brand new transmission in that price? I paid less than half that having mine rebuilt 9 years ago.

At this point I would see about having a good used transmission installed, from a reputable place like LKQ (not some random junkyard). But. given your transmission shifts fine otherwise, I assume that would still be unnecessary and would be the "nuclear option".

I did a random Google search for P1776 in Chryslers just to see what other information there could be. Found this. ... he%20cause.

Sounded like in this case it was the solenoid block, which you've already been down. Since your shop tried a known good valve body with no change, sounds like your valve body may be OK. I wonder about the transmission range sensor, which Chrysler has noted can also set the code. I wouldn't know anything about it.
 #395868  by Nickertrip
I called another transmission shop and they won't work on it since they can't get factory oem parts.

I've read that people have had good luck with TRANZMISSION PARTS USA for a re-manufactured solenoid pack. I see 2 different listings on Ebay for the same for 89.95 and one for 99.95. Which one would be the best to try?

I am thinking about having the original shop try one of these solenoids...if he is willing to install it. ... BM9omX8Ptj

or ... BM-ImX8Ptj

Last ditch effort to save the car....
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 #395869  by FIREM
They are the same price, one is “free shipping “ other is $9.99 shipping.
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 #395871  by FIREM
Yes also Ryan had success with this vendors product.
 #395942  by Nickertrip
Today, the transmission shop installed the re-manufactured solenoid pack from TRANZMISSION PARTS USA. So far so good! I drove the car 70+ miles in varying conditions and did not get the p0700/p1776. In fact, it drove fantastic!

I am hoping that we are past this very stressful situation and can be problem free for long while.

Thanks everyone for their input and ideas, I appreciate it.

On a side note...we dropped the car off at the shop last night for him to work on it today. A surprise thunderstorm passed thru and dumped hail on the car. Now, we have some decent size dings. It would have been safe at our hail.
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 #395945  by FIREM
Sounds like some good news. Hope the transmission issue is behind you.
PDR folks can work wonders with hail damage, maybe some insurance help.......