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  • CV Axle Circlips - Get the MOPAR Version

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Repair Questions and Answers.

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User avatar
 #322473  by TrueBlue
 December 9th, 2013, 8:49 am
:?

Story:
  • Cold outside, normal conditions otherwise
    Drive car to Lowes
    Decelerate for stop sign, from 60 MPH
    Notice speedometer drops from 60 to >5 MPH instantly, while car slows normally
    Tried to pull away from stoplight, rewarded with metal grinding sounds
    Called AAA and had it flatbedded home
Symptoms:
  • No forward or reverse motion
    Car, in gear, does not want to freely roll
    Going through all of the gears with my foot on the brake makes the speedo jump: D/1st 10 mph, 2nd 15ish MPH, 3rd 20ish MPH.
    After the car was home, I tested it - engine starts fine, nothing odd there. Revving the engine with it in gear and foot on the brake yielded NO sounds, just revving and the speedo staying steady at the 10 / 15 /20 MPH marks.
    No leaking fluids after 12+ hrs
    Don't see anything hanging down under the car (i.e. broken pan, axle, etc)
Side note:
Flatbed driver proclaimed her "the best looking Chrysler I've towed" :|

I was parking her soon for winter, and I haven't pulled the wheels yet. I did recently finish an axle swap about 2-3 months back.

300mclub, I will fix her, but I am seriously debating if I am keeping this car any longer afterwards.
User avatar
 #322474  by TrueBlue
 December 9th, 2013, 9:02 am
Oh and key dance = no codes.
User avatar
 #322475  by FIREM
 December 9th, 2013, 9:04 am
Sounds like axle issue?? Output shaft turning ? (speedo jump is a good indicator)
Fliuid look / smell "normal" ?
 #322479  by user97
 December 9th, 2013, 10:27 am
Judging by the description, something inside tranny broke that separated output shaft of the tranny from wheels.

If axles are still in their places (I.e did not slide/pop off studs), the. It is something in the final drive...

The only "replaceable part" that could be swapped without pulling tranny is the transfer chain/sprockets, but I never heard of that breaking. On 41TE (minivan) I've seen reports of output shaft breaking where the final drive gears attach. Could be that you suffered one of those one/of failures.
User avatar
 #322480  by TrueBlue
 December 9th, 2013, 10:28 am
I'll pull the dipstick and smell it tonight. My house is 1/3rd torn apart so I haven't had much time for the car since yesterday. I did check the fluid on it about a month back, it was normal then.

Yes, the speedo does register, somewhat. If I can get a moment, I'll try and upload a video to YouTube but I think I'll learn the most by pulling the wheels off and looking there.
User avatar
 #326232  by TrueBlue
 February 24th, 2014, 8:23 am
Yes! With the warm weather I got the car up. The circlip that came with the new CV axle snapped and the axle was able to back off the stub shaft. It was found in the grease, inside the tripod.

I put both halves back together in the clip's groove - the clip's ID was way too big, and it's OD way too small. My theory is that with normal driving the clip was bounced around in the groove, randomly being stressed at different areas, until one day it had enough and gave up the ghost.

I'm going to get a new MOPAR clip and reinstall. I noted that the new CV's splined shaft is somewhat different from the old ones - just happened to have the broken OEM piece still - and the new one's splines continue to the groove, and stop, whereas the factory spline go to the groove, stop at the groove, then continue on the other side of the groove. Wonder if this plus the wimpy circlip led to the impromptu flatbed ride.
User avatar
 #326265  by TrueBlue
 February 24th, 2014, 2:56 pm
So Matt (mlasms08) is getting a couple MOPAR circlips for me to refit the axle to, and on lunch I started the car and put it in gear. Output shaft's spinning. Should have it roadworthy by this weekend.
 #326266  by user97
 February 24th, 2014, 3:01 pm
Back in '07 Bill and I exchanged messages on usenet about circlips on axles -- in my case the replacement circlip (that came with the reman axle) was mush thinner and had smaller OD than the original. Now I have a stack of axle circlips and o-rings for use if/when I remove axles.

Also, the amount of grease used should be very minimal -- else it "packs up at the end of the stub and prevents the circlip from fully engaging (but that would cause lack of initial engagement, rather than disengagement down the road).
User avatar
 #326273  by TrueBlue
 February 24th, 2014, 4:07 pm
Interesting that this may be endemic to the aftermarket axles! I guess we'll have to make a note of that in further axle discussions - get the MOPAR clip.

I'll grab a pic of the factory vs aftermarket clip when I grab mine.
User avatar
 #327262  by TrueBlue
 March 10th, 2014, 8:11 am
Mods, can you change the title to "CV Axle Circlips - Get the MOPAR Version"

Well, good news, everyone. Special is alive and well, even brought her to work today. The issue was indeed the axle coming free of the shaft and the aftermarket circlip was the issue. I put the aftermarket and the genuine MOPAR side by side so you can see the difference.

Image

There is a definite size difference between MOPAR in orange and the aftermarket one.

Image

Wire is A.) a thicker guage, B.) at least 1/4" longer, resulting in a smaller gap, and C.) a tougher steel, less resistant to flexing and losing its shape.

The MOPAR piece was $2.65.

Because every successful resolution thread should feature a pic of the car, here's one I took yesterday after a bath.
Image

Yay for OEM.
User avatar
 #327265  by LUNAT1C
 March 10th, 2014, 8:28 am
TrueBlue wrote:Mods, can you change the title to "CV Axle Circlips - Get the MOPAR Version"

Well, good news, everyone. Special is alive and well, even brought her to work today. The issue was indeed the axle coming free of the shaft and the aftermarket circlip was the issue. I put the aftermarket and the genuine MOPAR side by side so you can see the difference.

Image

There is a definite size difference between MOPAR in orange and the aftermarket one.

Image

Wire is A.) a thicker guage, B.) at least 1/4" longer, resulting in a smaller gap, and C.) a tougher steel, less resistant to flexing and losing its shape.

The MOPAR piece was $2.65.

Because every successful resolution thread should feature a pic of the car, here's one I took yesterday after a bath.
Image

Yay for OEM.

Topic title changed, as requested. Good job! Always interesting how a miniscule part, value in the single digits, could fail and render the car unusable. This will be great information for others as time goes on and CV's need to be replaced.
User avatar
 #327277  by TrueBlue
 March 10th, 2014, 12:22 pm
LUNAT1C wrote:Topic title changed, as requested. Good job! Always interesting how a miniscule part, value in the single digits, could fail and render the car unusable. This will be great information for others as time goes on and CV's need to be replaced.
Thanks for the change 8)

Yes, hoping I can save someone the headache. Definitely worth the $3!
User avatar
 #327279  by beespecial
 March 10th, 2014, 1:18 pm
Glad it was an inexpensive fix.