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LH Performance Modification Discussions
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 #359485  by Morphun
 June 28th, 2016, 10:27 pm
I understand what turbo flutter is quite well nonetheless I experience no side effects that I can sense while boosting. The fuel system is in no way modified, if you have any information on where to start please post! On our cars the back very big, the air filter is safe you don't have to worry about water and debris from the road. That was a concern until I mounted the turbo and saw that it was going to sit as high off the ground and a passenger in the back seat. As for the piping, two inches was to increase the air flow to the intercooler so boost would build faster. It is to my knowledge that above 10 pounds the air mass would be strangled by this setup due to friction and turbulence in the piping. As for heat from the turbo back to the intake, there isn't any rise unless the car is left running in one spot for a good while. Temperature is generally only a few degrees warmer than outside air and that is good seeing as I get that from the engine bay piping. All is well with the 3.2.

As I have said, there is a BIG power difference but I have no were to prove that except the local highway. I'll have to wait until I get someone to ride with me so I can post a good run. I do think this has potential to make some serious power but not a day goes by I don't question the tranny. What can it handle? Will is fall out :?: only time will tell.
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 #359486  by FIREM
 June 29th, 2016, 5:44 am
MAP sensor reads Manifold Absolute Pressure, vacuum on an non boosted engine.
I suggest research over at the Prowler site as they had/ have some experience with boosting 3.5's
Paxton supercharger kits were used by some. www.prowleronline
 #359499  by snstr_auto
 June 29th, 2016, 1:04 pm
For fuel system we pulled the tank and the pump.

Removed the factory regulator.

Gutted the pump out and swapped in a Warlboro 255lph (Accel part# 75706, for a mustang but we used the pump and some bracketing, is discontinued now) (Its very loud) in the OEM pumps place, which was a bit of a hassle to get it in place but still utilizes factory-ish look.

Hard mounted a boost referencing regulator (Aeromotive part # 13129. 1:1 rise ratio) and fabricated a return line into the tank from the regulator. Everything is self contained to the tank and looks almost OEM.

I will be experimenting with an SRT4 MAP sensor (factory 2 bar) in the near-ish future, need to get a few parts from an 02+ 3.5 first.
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 #359559  by Morphun
 June 30th, 2016, 11:53 pm
That seems like a good plan, not much experience with fuel systems but I shall order parts and give this a shot.
 #359571  by snstr_auto
 July 1st, 2016, 11:32 am
This is how my setup looks roughly now. I don't seem to have a more 'complete' picture readily at my disposal. I will have to take one when I go to work on it later
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 #359976  by Morphun
 July 13th, 2016, 11:11 am
Snstr would you happen to have a picture of said fuel pump modifications? Is the regulator installed inside or outside the tank? I would love the idea of outside if possible so it could be adjusted on the fly.

Also did you remove your AC compressor for your turbo?
 #360000  by snstr_auto
 July 14th, 2016, 1:54 pm
Regulator is outside the tank ON the tank, so on the fly adjustments aren't exactly a possibility.

I will have to see if I have pics on my PC at home. I thought I did, but they may have been posted straight to Facebook

AC was deleted when I had to swap my first engine. I was too broke to afford the proper evacuation/recharge procedure at the shop doing the work so it was deleted. I never used it anyways so It didn't bother me
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 #360018  by Morphun
 July 16th, 2016, 3:16 pm
Judging by the on the tank, I would assume you left it at the top by the pump? If anything I'll figure something out to get easy access to it. One too many parts floating around at the moment to even start!
 #360151  by snstr_auto
 July 22nd, 2016, 5:39 pm
The regulator is actually mounted to the EVAP canister. It is accessible from beneath the car, still up high enough to not be visible when driving. Doing so helped to keep the return line short
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 #360165  by Morphun
 July 23rd, 2016, 8:35 pm
Well I went and did it, I bumped into a vet on the high way 3 days ago and feeling all powerful went after him and after 15 minutes of on and off boost blew my lower intake gasket? Is that normal :shock: every thing else seems ok nothing wrong at all just a hiss from the drivers side lower manifold and crab cleaner says It's there. I can't expect anything has cracked under 7lb of boost especially the aluminum going before the plenum. fyi I do not regret it :mrgreen:
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 #360169  by adu1982
 July 23rd, 2016, 11:42 pm
Kinda like me vs the mustang......pretty sure, while it was a fluke, mine might have lasted longer if not pushed like that. I think the 4 to 6 k rpm pushed my failing piston to its earlier demise...

But I don't regret it and I will put it back on the road by the end of the year.
Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk
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 #360216  by Morphun
 July 26th, 2016, 1:07 am
Well after replacing lower and upper intake gaskets nothing changed :( bleeding this car of air made life so much more loveable . While I did find some damage to the gasket, it wasn't anything boost related. After 7 hours of pulling all the piping from the car, pulling the waste gate, damaging fuel injector o-rings only to put it all back together and pull it apart because I missed one.......I found out that it was just busted exhaust seal acting like a big waste gate. I couldn't even here it. Actually it was the cat that crawled under it and screamed that made me look. So much for that problem.
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 #362958  by Morphun
 November 23rd, 2016, 12:02 am
Quick question, is it possible to separate the map and intake air temperature sensors? Would like to experiment with a few map sensors as soon as I can install a piggyback fuel system.
 #362959  by snstr_auto
 November 23rd, 2016, 1:20 am
Yes. Later cars (02+) had separate MAP and Intake temp sensors. So it should be possible to do so.
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 #362988  by Shawn1301
 November 26th, 2016, 3:59 pm
Just going on a limb, but the iat uses the same ground as the map(4-wire) in 98-01, and the iat is a two wire sensor.
You "might" be able to use an 02+ connectors, map(3-wire), and iat sensors in place on the 01,
Have to splice the sensor ground 2-ways and pull the iat wire from the old map connector to wire up the iat, and use remaining three (5v,map,ground) for the newer style map sensor.