Chrysler 300M Enthusiasts Club
  • Axle removal method w/pics

  • Speed Sensors and ATF+4 and the like
Membership Banner

Speed Sensors and ATF+4 and the like

Moderator: Moderators

 #375890  by rebel_scum65
 September 30th, 2018, 9:27 am
I just finished replacing the drivers side driveshaft and found a method that worked rather quickly for me. Figured I would post it here in case anyone else has to R&R a driveshaft soon.

After you have everything disassembled and the driveshaft is ready to be pulled out follow these steps,

1: Obtain two ratchet straps.
- Make sure they are a bit hefty as you dont want them snapping under tension.

2: Take both ratchet straps and wrap them around the back of the inner CV joint.
- Make sure you are wrapping them around the CV joint only.
- You will want the ratchet straps on opposite sides of the inner CV joint so that you are pulling it straight away from the tranny shaft.
3: Attach the opposite ends of the ratchet strap to the steering knuckle.
4: Place a bar somewhere between you and the axle.
- I was paranoid about the CV joint smashing my face one it popped off so I wedged a prybar between the engine cradle and frame so that in the event of the CV joint flying off, it would at least hit the prybar and not myself.

5: Tighten the straps.
- You will want to get a lot of pulling tension on the inner CV joint.

6: Hit the inner cv joint with a dead stop hammer.
- This force, coupled with the ratchets straps pulling the CV joint out, will cause the CV joint to simply pop off.

Only took me about 10 minutes to get the inner cv joint off the car.

Keywords: Driveshaft, CV joint, Axle
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
User avatar
 #375898  by Mottman
 September 30th, 2018, 9:10 pm
This is how I did The EVIL Sickness a few years ago.
And I still had to use a 6' long pry-bar while whacking
the crap out of the inner cv joint.
TWO HOURS LATER, it did let go !

A few months ago, I tried to replace the left cv axil on
I got lucky on that one. we just happened to have a
core 42LE trans. sitting in the shop next to the lift I was
I popped out the snap-ring that holds the intermediate-shaft
into the trans. and the whole shaft assembly slid out so easy
on both trannys, I felt like an idiot !

Trying to save my original intermediate-shaft
( in case of a next time ) proved futile in the end.
I could-not get the CV-axil off of the shaft no mater what !
even a 20 ton press wouldn't make it budge at all !

So, the inner CV-axil cup and intermediate-shaft went with the
core trans, and the rest of the axil assy. went into a stuffer.
( stripped car shell about to be crushed ).

Next time I will use an angle-grinder with a cut-off wheel
and chop the cv-cup apart.
In the meantime I still have 2 spare transmissions I can rob
intermediate-shafts and snap-rings from.

Good ratcheting tie-downs also come in handy for
swapping transmissions, engine mounts and engines too !

I have used them as coil-spring compressors as well.
( gotta be REALLY GOOD tie-downs, use 3 at least and

I even supported SILVER DEVIL's complete bare main body
shell with tie-downs and seat-belts.

Seat-belts are tough as nails as well
( as long as they arent cut or frayed anywhere that is supporting
alot of weight )
User avatar
 #375922  by LUNAT1C
 October 2nd, 2018, 9:17 am
Seems like for some folks they can pop right out, others (myself included), forget it. Luna is going a shop tomorrow to have both axles done before heading to OC.
User avatar
 #387559  by Resurrected
 March 20th, 2021, 9:49 pm
I found the my Axle nut came off easy using penetrating oil & with both wheels on the ground. Since it did not initially budge, I decided to break the corrosion bridging by tightening it first about 2” on a ~14” breaker bar. After that it turned off smooth as silk! :wink: