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Speed Sensors and ATF+4 and the like

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 #395570  by Rtmmn87
So I have to change the solenoid, but I’m on a budget… I’m already doing a slew of other work to the car… I’ll post my parts list in a different post. But my question is… I can buy a whole transmission 42le a606 condition unknown, guessing good running, unknown miles from a reputable salvage yard already pulled, for 200bucks. Or buy a refurb solenoid, or get the valve body and solenoid? With that said the cheaper the better. But also need longevity… I also could use a list of all gaskets and stuff I would need. I was thinking of just getting the used transmission, pulling the valve body and solenoid, cleaning em up, getting a list of gaskets, throwing it on my car, and potentially just rebuilding that other transmission over time… when I do the solenoid I’m also changing the input/output sensors, I’m dropping the oil pan and cleaning it out, as I’m having low oil pressure light, new tires, new struts all around, I’m retrofitting some bmw headlights in (just wait for pics it’s gonna be crude but will be badass when it’s done) I have to fix my camber on the rear end since the shop that just did my alignment said the couldn’t adjust my adjustable aftermarket camber alignment rods…. After alllllll of that I can finally tackle the short in my cluster, and my climate control, oh and my sunroof switch. I also have a random black/red wire that is in the engine bay that runs in the same “harness” as the black/green wire that goes to the coil pack just hanging out. Also have to try and repair my front left quarter panel as a power steering leak has made a spot of rot right through :/ thankfully I just picked up a welder and can weld a patch in! Hence the retrofit of the Beamer headlights. They are F30 headlights if you wanna look em up. Getting them for a steal of a deal. Getting a set of brand new 235/50/17 (wrong size I know) tires with less than 2k miles on em for 200 bucks. They are kenda brand I believe? I looked em up and they are like 108 a piece brand new. But anyway side tracked! The transmission issue is my hurdle right now. Used tranny, pull parts, or buy solenoid? If solenoid do valve body also? What gaskets will I need to get? In the oil pan, is the pickup tube in there? Lots of questions heh. Remember the cheapest route possible. My budget is very minimal.
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 #395571  by LUNAT1C
Cheapest route possible is swap the transaxle and pray to Jesus, Mary, Joseph, Buddha, Zues, Ra, etc. etc. that it works. Used transaxles are always unknowns until they've been gone through.

Cheapest route with an eye for reliability is replace the solenoid pack if that's currently giving you trouble, and the trans itself shifts fine with good clean fluid. If I want some guarantee of the used transaxle working correctly, I would never install it until it has been gone through and clutch packs confirmed OK, valve body OK, and solenoid pack replaced, so there would be no savings. I wouldn't chance the pack being ok at all. The trouble is you have no idea what that transaxle has been through at this point, or why the donor car was junked. It could very well have been junked because the pack went out, and now you've spent the $200 on it and done the work to swap it, and not be any better off. Money wasted, nothing saved. I had my transaxle rebuilt 9 years ago due to worn clutch packs and had them replace the solenoid pack with a brand new Mopar unit even though my original was fine, because the failure rate was high enough to warrant doing so and avoid having to go back in. My valve body looked to be in great shape, so the trans shop cleaned it and reinstalled. No issues with it since then.

Never heard of Kenda. Check the date code on the side wall, don't bother if they're more than 6 years old.

Pickup tube will be accessible when the engine oil pan is dropped.

I don't know what the value of an F30 retrofit is, I haven't seen it spoken of in retrofit circles. If you're looking for better headlight output, look for Special headlights. But if money is tight right now even for repairing the transaxle, maybe wait on that for a bit and refinish your existing set.
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 #395577  by Rtmmn87
So the tires are off of a 2019 ford fusion, drove for a couple months and winter tires put on and those ones taken off, cheap enough… and yeah I wouldn’t put the whole tranny in, just take the solenoid and vb off and put it on mine, it shifts great besides the overdrive… it kicks out like say I start from a dead stop it won’t shift into it but from a rolling stop it goes almost straight into overdrive at like 40. Could it be just the input output sensors? And for gaskets I’m assuming, I’ll need trans pan gasket, valve body gasket, solenoid gasket, any other things I should replace? Filter too of course. For the oil pan I’ll do oil pan gasket pickup tube gasket, anything else? The headlights are out of a 2015 bmw 355i. The guy upgraded and is going to sell me his stock set for 175, it’s gonna take some engineering but that’s my specialty heh. If I can’t get it to work, just resell them for 250-300. They are 600 new even for used ones… so not really any loss there.
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 #395578  by FIREM
Big list, lots going on, little money, we all have been there.
Slow down and stick to the basics first. Looks like you are ready to spend money on an oil pan gasket and suction tube gasket (its actually an o'ring) among other things. FWIW we have never seen a sludged engine or failed pick up tube cause low oil pressure (yet)
Commonly failed sending unit/switch usually the cause.
Did you verify oil pressure as noted in an earlier thread.
I would not do anything or spend a dime unless the oil pressure is OK. If it is not the engine will fail and all other work wasted.
Cost of a mechanical gauge ($13 @RockAuto) if you had to buy it is about the same as a pan gasket.
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 #395579  by LUNAT1C
If your intent is to only get the solenoid pack from the used transaxle, don't. Again, I would never use a used unknown solenoid pack. Always get new or refurbished. Do the filter while you're in there and don't forget to only use ATF+4, no other ATF.

Still check the tire date code. For all you know, the tires were made in 2014 even if the current owner bought them in 2019. If they were made in 2019, they're still near end of life and still not worth it except to drive around town. Lifespan is 6-10 years and I'm not sure I would trust an off brand longer than 6 years on the highway.

Check to see what the performance of those headlights is, might not be worth the hassle. If they're halogen (assuming you meant 335i, it could be halogen or HID), I wouldn't bother. Buying Special headlights will be much easier and better. But again, refinish what you have first until you've got the car mechanically sorted.
 #395611  by Rtmmn87
So, the lady sold the tires from underneath me, the headlights I passed on, and I haven’t ordered any parts. But! I have found a 2002 300m a guy is parting out, no rims or tires, no battery so unsure of miles… mint interior. I was thinking of trying to get him to sell me the motor and trans out of it lol! But he wants kinda crazy prices, 200 bucks for the headlights, 60 for the dash cluster, 40 for the climate control… but I’m having problems with my rear camber, it’s like 1.3 negative on the driver left. I’m going to take a look underneath tomorrow and see what I can see. I’ll send a pic of my alignment results, I’m pretty sure my power steering pump is fubar, and making a god awful sound, and still haven’t gotten to the oil pressure. My poor car is coming up to its last leg :(
 #395612  by rustybronco
After alllllll of that I can finally tackle the short in my cluster, and my climate control,
Is the car blowing fuses?
 #395617  by Rtmmn87
No, no fuses, when it’s super cold, the cluster will light up, and if I take the climate control and jiggle the wires just right, it will turn on… also when I changed my inner tie rod bushings my grounds touched together and sparked which means I have a short somewhere… I hate electrical and honestly am super overwhelmed with everything… I know it’s a wiring issue, bad wire somewhere I honestly just haven’t dug into it. More worried about being able to drive down the road. Going outside to check the rear suspension now so I can order my parts, and then order tires. I mean the only work it’s had is what I’ve done to it, and it’s 21 years old… so I’m sure all the rear suspension is shot aside from camber alignment rods which I did when I first bought the car. But now I’m at a point where I can’t afford a payment for a new car and have to fix this one. I love this car and it is honestly a survivor and I used to be anti dodge, until this car. Now I stand by them no problem lol. Idk if anyone’s got some free time shoot me a message. Maybe I could talk through some of the issues instead of trying to type it all out. But off to my garage to lift the rear end and check it out.
 #395619  by Rtmmn87
So it won’t let me add photos, but it appears I have adjustable front and rear bars in the back, spc brand front, and I’m not sure on the back, the sway bar rod bushings are shot, and it looks like the bushings on the back bars are shot, and on the left side the bushings are bad on the front, question is do I replace the back rods completely, the sway bar linkage rods I’m gonna do whole, should I do the sway bar bushings as well, and can I find bushings for the spc camber rods? Do you think that will help my camber? Also my struts are gone, but my wheel bearings are good… was going to do all 4 struts
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 #395620  by LUNAT1C
Images can be attached using the attachment icon while making a new post, and pasting the subsequent image link in the post. Alternatively you can email the photos to your personal Fotki folder that every member receives (in your case, email 2-3 images at a time to, then navigating there and copying the link for forum posts into your new post. Here is the link to your personal Fotki folder, I keep mine open in a Chrome tab and use it frequently for forum posting: ... l-patrick/

What rods are you referring to that are adjustable? The only adjustable linkages are the rear lateral links, the forward lateral links are solid unless someone replaced them with the rear adjustable lateral links at some point. I'm not aware of the bushings in those links ever wearing out (though it's not impossible). I would replace the whole thing if they are.

Stabilizer (anti-sway) bar bushings should be replaced if they're worn, plenty of replacement bushings out there. They usually cause clunking over bumps and potholes. Be very careful with the rear ones, the clipnuts for the bracket bolts tend to seize and break inside the unitized subframe -- bad day.

Stabilizer bar links should be replaced, front and rear, if they are loose or boots or torn or bushings are ruined. I believe only the rear stabilizer links have bushings, where they connect to the rear strut bodies.

Camber is not adjustable on these cars unless the front lower strut bolts were upgraded to the adjustable kind from a camber kit. Rear if I remember right requires the solid forward lateral links to be replaced with the adjustable ones found on the rear, otherwise only toe is adjustable.
 #395621  by Rtmmn87
Okay, I’ll have to try to figure out the picture thing later, but yes the front lateral bar has been changed, when I first purchased the car. The anti sway bar links are shot, I should replace the fronts as well I suppose, they are cheap enough off rock auto, and yeah the rear sway bar bushings look like a pain to change. I did the front ones already. I just have horrible camber on the left side, like negative 1.3 and then the rear passenger is negative 1.15 or something. I’ll look when I get home. Ive already bought front lateral 2 years ago they look to be in good shape, the rear are bad, and the sway bar stabilizer are shot. My tires are getting eaten alive. I’ll take more pics and get them figured out later. Trying to stay under 1k for the solenoid, oil pressure sensor, suspension, and tires… going through rock auto for most of it