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Talk about changing your own brakes

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 #386213  by 00R/T
 
I’m not familiar enough with how everything is plumbed with the ABS pump, distribution block, master cyclinder, etc. but I’m wondering if it would be possible to temporarily cap the rear circuits at the front of the car and use only the front brakes.

Here’s my issue - I was pulling down my driveway and the brake pedal went to the floor. There was a trail of fluid under the back part of the car so I know a line let loose back there. It looks like there was also a puddle under where the ABS block is, so I may have an additional issue. My hood latch is stuck and I haven’t felt like dealing with it so I haven’t taken a closer look at what’s going on in that corner. Now, assuming it is only a leak somewhere in one of the rear circuits, is the car going to hold pressure on the fronts if I can cap those lines? I’m thinking the answer is yes, but I’m not positive. I’m not going to have time to fix the lines before winter, and I’d really like to get the car in the garage. It’s going to be really tricky to maneuver it while pushing. So, if I can get some brake action at low speed and drive it in, that will be super helpful.
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 #386214  by LUNAT1C
 
I can't answer that question specifically, but how is the parking brake? I would make use of that (with SLOW maneuvering, idle speed as much as possible, neutral with each need to slow down) to slide the car into the garage, then deal with the lines when I can.
 #386216  by 00R/T
 
LUNAT1C wrote:I can't answer that question specifically, but how is the parking brake? I would make use of that (with SLOW maneuvering, idle speed as much as possible, neutral with each need to slow down) to slide the car into the garage, then deal with the lines when I can.
It works. That’s how I got it out of the middle of the driveway. The concern I have with it is the awkwardness of setting and releasing it while trying to maneuver and the difficulty in applying it gradually. I’ve actually driven a car home before with a lever style, but the pedal is a whole different story.

If it comes to that, I’ll probably try to get it lined up with my garage as best as I can and then try to push it going through the actual door. I just wish that wasn’t the side of my driveway with a retaining wall!
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 #386221  by Sneke_Eyez
 
I believe in theory you could do it, but it is a bear to get access to the block to do it.
It is easiest to have good access with the front bumper off.
 #386222  by cin993
 
I also had a leak, actually it was a minor weeping, in one rear brake line couple years ago, right along the drivers side gas tank. In a pinch you can simply put in small patch of brake line, cut out the old line and flare in a new section, its pretty easy and cheap, maybe couple hours time

But i decided to replace all my brake lines with nickel copper. I think it was a good call. There were a few other areas where the lines were rusty, but not weeping yet, And at the ABS junction block a few lines were very rusty. Now it's all new
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 #386251  by ggariepy
 
I replaced the lines in my now-departed 300M with Ni-Cu. It wasn't fun, but it was probably easier than using steel. That repair exposed me to enough of the underside of the car to come to the conclusion it was too far gone with rust to invest any more time and money into repairing, so I dumped it shortly after I finished the job and got a nice, clean Intrepid ES instead for my son.
 #389421  by 00R/T
 
Alright, so a year and several frighting no-brake repositionings of the car in my driveway and I really need to take care of this issue.

I pulled the fascia off because at the very least I’m going to get the car towed to the shop to get the brake lines repaired.

After I got it off, I had access to the lines at the block so I decided to try this idea. I was able to get plugs that appear to have done what I wanted. However, I still have no pressure. This leads me to think one of two things - either the master cylinder is bad, or there is air in the lines between the master and the ABS pump and/or in the pump itself.

I guess the question is - can I bleed the whole system without a DRBIII or driving the car? I would like to try that first before considering the master cylinder. I don’t think I have a leak elsewhere as the level in the reservoir has not gone down since I just filled it and when the problem first showed up, I had a puddle of brake fluid under the back of the car. So, I’m pretty sure I did have a leak in a rear line somewhere.
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 #389424  by FIREM
 
"I guess the question is - can I bleed the whole system without a DRBIII or driving the car? I would like to try that first before considering the master cylinder. I don’t think I have a leak elsewhere as the level in the reservoir has not gone down since I just filled it and when the problem first showed up, I had a puddle of brake fluid under the back of the car. So, I’m pretty sure I did have a leak in a rear line somewhere."

You SHOULD be able to bleed without a DRB or driving as long as there are no leaks. The ABS System "Cycles" every time the Key is turned on. Bleed "normally' then cycle the key a few times, bleed again. May take a few cycles but the system does fill & purge at every start and drive cycle.
At the end of life for my Pro -Am the rear brake lines were pinched off with vice grips for the last few weeks as the rear lines had rusted thru. Ran back and forth to work with only front brakes, a little crazy an dicey but did it.