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 #376300  by slimpants
 October 27th, 2018, 11:30 am

Many years ago I tried one the kits an enthusiast here recommended but I had limited success after several hours of elbow grease on each headlight. Eventually just bought new replacements.

Has anyone tried this similar strategy ?


 #376303  by cos1776
 October 27th, 2018, 2:33 pm
The method demonstrated in the video works well and the results last with the application of the clear, at least in my experience.
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 #376308  by Mottman
 October 27th, 2018, 10:54 pm

I tried the ChrisFix method. It didn't work out too well for me.
Im not saying his method is wrong.
MOST of each headlight came out looking pretty good.
Unfortunately, as the clear coat dried, it developed crazing along
the bottom edges of each headlight.
I honestly THINK it was my fault.
I had the headlights out of the car and masked off along the rubber
welting and bottom edges.
I wiped each lens with alcohol, waited a 5 minutes, and started spraying.
I THINK what happened was the alcohol soaked into the masking tape
and did not evaporate away completely ( the tape basically acted like a
sponge and trapped off air to the alcohol )
Without realizing it as I was spraying the paint, the bottom edge was being
contaminated by alcohol vapors gassing-off from the masking tape.

I have been meaning to try again.
Just haven't gotten around to it.
MOST of each headlight looked fantastic.

Hope this helps you avoid my mistake. Good luck.
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 #376310  by slimpants
 October 28th, 2018, 6:43 am

Thanks, all.

I perused some of the chatter on the YouTube clip and was particularly interested in this one:

G je 1 month ago (edited)
Sorry, not bagging the guy out, and he seems to do a great job but as someone who themselves restores headlights for a living, you don't sand plastic headlights with P400 grit paper.
Sand with P1500, this is more than capable of removing the old broken down UV film off of the lights. Sand with P2000 then P3000 and polish using a decent cutting polishing compound. Never jump more than 2 grades of paper. The P600 - P2000 is too big a jump and you will struggle big time to remove the P600 grit sanding marks.
Initially while sanding the sludge with P1500 it will be yellow, that's the broken down UV coating coming off. It will by the P2000 go milky white. This is the indicator that the coating has been removed. The P3000 makes it easier to remove all sanding marks and is easier to polish.
Clearcoat whether it be Acrylic or 2K clear isn't made for plastic lights. It'll begin to break down again over time due to it not bonding properly with the plastic. Use ceramic paint protection.itll last the same and look equally effective.
I'm a fully qualified spray painter for 29 years and used to be an Automotive Paint company rep for 15 years so yeah, that's how I know this. We trialled it.
Paint will not stick permanently to plastic as it's not designed for it. That's what plastic primers are for but, you wouldn't put that on it as the resin in it is basically yellow so the lights would look yellow anyway after clearing it.
The ceramic paint protection on the light goes hard, and bonds to the plastic, and being a thinner film actually holds. I've got so many pictures of headlights that the applied clearcoat is coming off its incredible.
Plus new headlights don't cost $200 for your car. Try upwards of over $1000.
Headlights for a 2012 Toyota Camry are over $1500-2000 for the pair.
Ask a spraypainter who's qualified enough to do your headlights if your not confident enough, not a mechanic. They fix engines NOT paint. Had to fix up enough of those from them to know.
Good luck


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 #376311  by FIREM
 October 28th, 2018, 7:28 am
Many discussions on the forum, best results I have had here
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 #376362  by LUNAT1C
 October 30th, 2018, 10:56 am
The kit Bob linked is good for light oxidation. I used it on a yard Special light shortly before the Indy meet this year after one of my lights broke a tab and I needed to replace it for the trip.

The aftermarket lights on my Jeep yellowed over after only two years. I used a 3M restoration kit from O-Reilly's and my power drill to remove the failed UV coating and polish the lens back to a clear state, and used the included new UV coating from 3M. So far it is holding up well enough after spending the summer outside 24/7. We'll see how it lasts. If it fails again I will use the 2K clear, as folks in the headlight retrofit world swear by it.