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 #388599  by 00R/T
 
Garage is looking great! The MyQ system is nice. My house had fairly new Craftsman openers but they didn’t have WiFi, so I bought the MyQ bridge to get them online. I have them integrated with Apple HomeKit like everything else, and it’s nice to have. I also bought two of those belt drive units with the battery backup like you have when there was a clearance deal at Lowe’s. I’m going to install them in my main garage when I get a chance and then the craftsman will move to the detached garage

I can’t believe they’re hitting you for $30 for the Homelink bridge now. They were giving them away for free when the new openers came out because people were angry. The good thing is that they work very well. I had one when I had my 08 WK and used it for years.
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 #389662  by LUNAT1C
 
Learning more and more about the quirks of these new openers. Turns out, you can't use just any LED bulb in them. Naturally the assembly directions say something to the effect of "install incandescent bulbs (not provided) or the Chamberlain-branded LED bulbs ONLY!!" which for years has always meant "we'll only guarantee great performance if you spend more money on our overpriced stuff with our name on it". I popped in some old LED bulbs I had kicking around and moved on.

Well, the past few months I have had issues with the 2002 HomeLink communicating with the opener even with the bridge installed. It programs perfectly fine, but seemed like after a few days it would stop communicating. Worked fine around Carlisle, didn't work by August. Reprogrammed right before SC and worked flawlessly. Button 1 didn't open the door coming home from SC, button 2 did. Took the car out the next day to wash it and no buttons worked. Got it back into the garage, now buttons 2 and 3 work, button 1 does not.

Googling found multiple sources saying the Chamberlain brand LED bulb thing is legitimate, they operate on a lower frequency designed not to interfere with the opener signal. Other brand bulbs have a habit of interfering.

For now I plan to pull the car out of the garage and reprogram one more time (I had linked the opener and buttons after connecting the buttons to the bridge while the car was in the garage, I think that impacts the range somehow because the range seems bad and doesn't open until I'm in the driveway, while the Durango gets a good hit from the cul-de-sac), and stick some incandescent bulbs in since it's not on very often. The Chamberlain bulbs are $10, EACH!
 #389667  by TrepKing95
 
LUNAT1C wrote: November 16th, 2021, 11:00 am Learning more and more about the quirks of these new openers. Turns out, you can't use just any LED bulb in them. Naturally the assembly directions say something to the effect of "install incandescent bulbs (not provided) or the Chamberlain-branded LED bulbs ONLY!!" which for years has always meant "we'll only guarantee great performance if you spend more money on our overpriced stuff with our name on it". I popped in some old LED bulbs I had kicking around and moved on.

Well, the past few months I have had issues with the 2002 HomeLink communicating with the opener even with the bridge installed. It programs perfectly fine, but seemed like after a few days it would stop communicating. Worked fine around Carlisle, didn't work by August. Reprogrammed right before SC and worked flawlessly. Button 1 didn't open the door coming home from SC, button 2 did. Took the car out the next day to wash it and no buttons worked. Got it back into the garage, now buttons 2 and 3 work, button 1 does not.

Googling found multiple sources saying the Chamberlain brand LED bulb thing is legitimate, they operate on a lower frequency designed not to interfere with the opener signal. Other brand bulbs have a habit of interfering.

For now I plan to pull the car out of the garage and reprogram one more time (I had linked the opener and buttons after connecting the buttons to the bridge while the car was in the garage, I think that impacts the range somehow because the range seems bad and doesn't open until I'm in the driveway, while the Durango gets a good hit from the cul-de-sac), and stick some incandescent bulbs in since it's not on very often. The Chamberlain bulbs are $10, EACH!
Those bulbs are ridiculously overpriced! But it reminds me of an issue with a 2012 era Charger that would randomly set TPMS sensor location undetermined codes, that was eventually tracked down as a result of the aftermarket LED switchback bulbs the customer was using in the front park/turn lights. Crazy how something as seemingly insignificant as LED bulbs can cause so many headaches.
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 #389901  by LUNAT1C
 
Another project nearly complete. The previous owners left a huge storage thing in the basement that I tried to use as a project bench and storage bench, but it was too cumbersome and too rickety. While I'm off work this week, I got acquainted with my crow bar and ripped that sucker down .

New bench built:
PXL_20211229_025241021.jpg
Shelves built and objects going in:
PXL_20211230_022006984.jpg
The first project is already on the worktop, some recent Carolina residents may recognize it. :wink:

I have another shelving kit to build shelves under the stairs, to hold the fascia, dash, and rear bench seats I have stored. I have two light taupe rear Special seats, I should probably get rid of the one I got from a yard years ago.
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 #390097  by LUNAT1C
 
One more item partially checked off. For many years I've wanted a wired home network, and kind of had something like that at a couple rentals. Last week I got a box of plenum rated cat6 and a low voltage wall bracket, and assorted connectors and tools, and ran four lines from the basement up through the return to the bedroom I use as my office. Together with a network switch, I can get the full output of my Nest router to my office.

I moved the Netgear modem down to the basement along with the Nest Wifi mesh router. The modem takes the signal from the cable line and passes Ethernet to the router. The router then passes Ethernet to the 16-port switch as well as passing internet through the mesh wifi to the mesh point in the back room of the house. The switch then creates a wired network connected to the internet. Current my desktop and NAS upstairs are connected to the switch. This doubles the speed to my desktop versus wifi and connects my NAS to the internet, creating a personal cloud (as opposed to paying a monthly or yearly fee to Google or Microsoft for their cloud services).

The other two lines will be a spare, and something to connect another wifi point to if I get another one.

I'd like to run several lines out to the backroom as well to hardwire the point back there and hardwire the game consoles, but I'm not sure how to get into that room. The return is at the floor and the room is sunken, no basement below it. The wall behind the TV is an exterior wall. The interior wall behind the couch has no basement access. Might need to peruse the attic above the garage for access to the basement and perhaps ways of dropping a line down along that wall if we keep the point in the back of the room. Won't help getting the consoles connected though.

The new basement setup, power to the equipment is through a UPS with battery backup so the network can run a few hours in a power outage:
PXL_20220126_042631109.jpg
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 #390109  by Sneke_Eyez
 
Very cool, Robert.
I want to hardwire my TV, which is directly above my FIOS modem, but I need to run the cat6 and get a network switch and I haven't yet had the energy to do so.