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General Discussions about the 300M

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 #376872  by EasyRider300M
 December 11th, 2018, 8:06 pm
Took the 16 year old M out for a long drive to warm it up thoroughly to get it ready for the yearly vehicle inspection. Passed inspection. Car now has about 86k miles on it. I'm only putting on about 2000 miles a year so I would expect it would last another decade at least, as long as the rust doesn't do it in earlier.
Sneke_Eyez, beespecial liked this
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 #376914  by Francesco
 December 15th, 2018, 5:08 am
Thanks bee, been looking for that but couldn't find it.
The CCU returned to normal the next day on it's own. I also found out that resetting the temperature with the reset button above actually does something. Not sure what it does, but it does.
I ended up having to special order the E4 socket. Frustrating wasted hours of messing around with needle nose pliers and sockets stuffed with rubber bands and plumbers tape were soon forgotten once I applied my € 3.00 investment. Life is wonderful when you have the right tools.
beespecial liked this
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 #376922  by M-Pressive
 December 15th, 2018, 2:19 pm
Replaced the mode door in Lindsey's M. Only had heat through the main vents.

Took about an hour and a half with the help of the how-to on the forums.

Working great now!
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 #376925  by LUNAT1C
 December 16th, 2018, 1:50 am
Two weeks ago, the blue car was dead as a doornail. I assumed it was the lights turning themselves on again when in range of my phone, so after jumping it I pulled the fuse for the bluetooth controller. I don't have a dual maintainer yet, so it sat unplugged. Today I picked up the Xmas gift my dad bought me (rolling tool chest... awesome, thanks Dad!) and had to move the car so I could get the chest into the back corner of the garage.

Well. Dead as a doornail once again. Jumped it and rolled it out of the garage. Let run for about half an hour while I put things into place. When I was ready to put the car away again, I noticed the interior LEDs and mirror DRLs were still flickering very badly. I backed it back into the garage, killed it, and tried to restart. I was greeted with the infamous click-click-click-click-click....

So there we have it. After almost 5 years and many many full drains, my Autocraft platinum AGM s*** the proverbial bed. 5 years I'm told is fairly average for non-factory batteries, so with the past two being very abusive with the full drains, I'd say Advance sells some pretty reliable batteries. I think after Xmas, I'm going to pick up an Optima Bluetop deep cycle, but before I do that I want to check and be sure my aftermarket terminals will fit since they have additional posts near the standard SAE terminals. If it doesn't work, I'm also looking at the XSPower D3400 for the starting battery and another XSPower in a smaller size to fit in the trunk and power the audio system with an isolator between them. Haven't decided yet. May also swap out the 0-gauge welding cable for an actual audio power cable as well, since I'd be relocating it anyway.

Guess she's not getting a quiet winter slumber after all... I should just swap out the battery and call it a day, but I can never leave well enough alone.
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 #376964  by AndyPre
 December 19th, 2018, 5:27 am
Today, I had the timing belt, aux belts, water pump, timing belt tensioner and pulleys changed. The car only has 136000 km on it, but since I don't know if the timing belt was ever changed and I will drive home for Christmas, I wanted to get it done. Can someone tell me from the pictures, if the timing belt was the factory belt? Still looked pretty decent for being 20 years old, if so. The other belts did not fare so well... I'm glad I had the service done. The yellow G05 HOAT coolant is btw available in Europe. It's called either Glysantin 05 oder Glysantin Classic. The water pump still looked in good shape as well.

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 #376969  by FIREM
 December 19th, 2018, 7:20 am
From what we have seen that appears to be an original belt. Orange lettering and the Mopar symbol are the clues.
Almost every belt changed "looks" good to the eye regardless of age and miles. There is a gut over at the Prowler site (same3.5 engine as us) that has done some stretch testing on belts. The results show that "aged" belt with relatively low miles break at much lower pulls than new belts. Bottom line, age and miles are the reasons to replace the timing belt regardless of visual inspection.
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 #376970  by AndyPre
 December 19th, 2018, 9:49 am
Thanks for the info! In that case, I am even more glad that I got it done. Don't want to get stranded on a 2500 mile round trip. :-) Not this time of year. Or actually ever, for that matter.
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 #377108  by M-Pressive
 December 29th, 2018, 4:25 pm
Finally found one of my holy grail M parts today.

All the way from Poland! It needs a bit of work and paint but it will be in for the 2019 show season.

I have a couple ideas for the screen and what it will display. Just need to figure it out.

B7E3F58C-6ACB-476D-879A-A9F9FFA5C52A.jpeg
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 #377111  by Countachqv
 December 30th, 2018, 10:27 am
LUNAT1C wrote: December 16th, 2018, 1:50 am So there we have it. After almost 5 years and many many full drains, my Autocraft platinum AGM s*** the proverbial bed. 5 years I'm told is fairly average for non-factory batteries, so with the past two being very abusive with the full drains, I'd say Advance sells some pretty reliable batteries. I think after Xmas, I'm going to pick up an Optima Bluetop deep cycle, but before I do that I want to check and be sure my aftermarket terminals will fit since they have additional posts near the standard SAE terminals. If it doesn't work, I'm also looking at the XSPower D3400 for the starting battery and another XSPower in a smaller size to fit in the trunk and power the audio
I tried the gel battery before and convluded they are not worth it.
I only used top quality Interstate batteries. I have a car that really is very hard and demanding on batteries. the Interstate is one of the handfull I dont have to worry about
 #377112  by Countachqv
 December 30th, 2018, 10:32 am
AndyPre wrote: December 19th, 2018, 9:49 am Thanks for the info! In that case, I am even more glad that I got it done. Don't want to get stranded on a 2500 mile round trip. :-) Not this time of year. Or actually ever, for that matter.
Hope you did the back cover water seals. these rot after that much time and cause leaks. a bit more work but well worth the trouble
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 #377150  by sparky99
 January 1st, 2019, 8:43 pm
When I got the Intrepid running, I didn't have much time to do the odd stuff. I've been picking at it very slowly. a couple of days ago I received new hood and trunk lift supports. I installed the trunk supports and plan to install the hood supports along with a fresh synthetic oil change tomorrow.
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 #377168  by AndyPre
 January 2nd, 2019, 5:15 pm
Countachqv wrote: December 30th, 2018, 10:32 am
AndyPre wrote: December 19th, 2018, 9:49 am Thanks for the info! In that case, I am even more glad that I got it done. Don't want to get stranded on a 2500 mile round trip. :-) Not this time of year. Or actually ever, for that matter.
Hope you did the back cover water seals. these rot after that much time and cause leaks. a bit more work but well worth the trouble
Nope, I did not (had a shop do the work)... Hmmm. I did go on my trip, checked everything frequently, and no losses so far. Keeping fingers crossed.
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 #377226  by Katzchen78
 January 5th, 2019, 11:37 am
Working on replacing my brakes, but sadly finding more parts that need to be replaced! I am pretty hard on my brakes, so I guess I should invest in them. So glad to have you guys here to offer much needed advice and ideas!
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 #377248  by InfernoRedM
 January 6th, 2019, 10:07 am
Just a winter wash to keep the rust bugs away and keep her looking fresh!
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 #377265  by Sneke_Eyez
 January 7th, 2019, 10:07 am
Changed the oil in my mom's 2003 M - next oil change at 40,900 miles!
The car is so immaculate underneath due to low mileage and always being garaged.
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