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General Discussions about the 300M

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 #380725  by In-trepid
 September 16th, 2019, 6:57 pm
Today it was inner tir rod bushings on the Intrepid. These two piece Moog bushings lasted for four years, but probably should have been replaced a few months ago. Anyway, the car steers smooth and goes straight. What more can I ask for ?

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 #380728  by 2001Intrepid18
 September 17th, 2019, 11:17 am
I did an oil change trans filter change and cleaned the inside and outside of the car. Starting on my quarter panel rust this weekend. I’ve put it off for long enough. It needs done. I’m also removing my door mouldings as they’re flaking with clearcoat. :shock:
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 #380729  by LUNAT1C
 September 17th, 2019, 11:25 am
I was going to wait until the Spring, but I decided I didn't want to worry about it during the OC road trip. I bought a X2 Power Premium battery (rebranded Northstar) for the M yesterday from Batteries Plus. Very recently put the same battery in my Jeep and so far it's been starting very strong. The Autocraft Platinum did well for the 6 years of abuse I subjected it to. Plan to jack up the front end Saturday and install, clean up the area the best that I can, and work on the AC idler bracket to figure out why it's not putting enough tension on the belt. Maybe also dig out my fluid transfer pump and replace the trans fluid.
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 #380733  by Sneke_Eyez
 September 17th, 2019, 2:22 pm
Listed the Pro Am for sale here. Bittersweet feeling, but time to move on to something newer for Ashley.
Sometime in the next few days it will hit craigslist/Facebook marketplace, but I'm hoping someone here will want it.
 #380737  by StealthM
 September 17th, 2019, 3:54 pm
Well StealthM is back in operation. Brake lines in (that makes all of them now.) All new calipers installed. Thought I had mushy brakes but I did the dirt road ABS purge and the peddle seems much better now. Thanks for all the input folks. Chrome intake plenum redux should be back by end of next week. New gas cap not the issue. Still showing a P0440 on the CEL. Don't smell any gas fumes though for a large EVAC leak... might be time to replace the rusted fuel filler pipe.. (badly rusted). Looked under the hood all lines look good flexable and no cracks. Should I replace the solenoid on the radiator support? Can it be tested? Maybe grab one from the yard and swap it out. The CEL pops within a day or so. Is that normal for this malfunction. I know its not detramental to the car but I hate the CEL being on.
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 #380738  by In-trepid
 September 17th, 2019, 5:46 pm
This P0440 code is almost always the vapor canister on top of the fuel tank.
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 #380739  by beespecial
 September 17th, 2019, 6:51 pm
In-trepid wrote: September 17th, 2019, 5:46 pm This P0440 code is almost always the vapor canister on top of the fuel tank.
Agreed. P0440 and P0441 are usually the vapor canister.
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 #380740  by M-Pressive
 September 17th, 2019, 7:12 pm
Yup. Grab a canister from rock auto. They ship oem ones.

Drop the tank and swap it.
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 #380742  by EasyRider300M
 September 17th, 2019, 7:46 pm
when I got that code many miles ago, I just replaced the gas cap and all has been well since then.
 #380743  by StealthM
 September 17th, 2019, 8:24 pm
Yeah thats what I figured....lol if thats the case since I have to drop the tank I might as well replace the fuel pump/sending unit and paint the rusty metal shields... OEM or aftermarket fuel pump? Thoughts on the best one to use?
 #380744  by StealthM
 September 17th, 2019, 8:26 pm
Thanks Easyrider. That was my first attempted fix. Was able to locate a new oem one.. no dice.
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 #380745  by adu1982
 September 17th, 2019, 9:12 pm
Haven't had time for any repairs. I needed some more room in the shed so I finally took out the rear Pro-Am seats.. (front seats were destroyed by something in my shed and had to throw them away a while back).... I guess if I ever do find a set I will grab it, clean and install like I did with the "new" one in the LHS. The old set LHS set will probably follow it next week on the curb side.......

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 #380748  by sparky99
 September 18th, 2019, 6:33 pm
couple of days ago, I tossed my ATE slotted brake rotors from the green car on our lathe at work in an attempt to clean off all the rust from the car sitting.

well, the flap disc on my die grinder didn't touch it. so, I got the 4.5" dewalt with a 60 grit flap disc on it and went to town. Results were much better. I had the lathe turning slowly and I smoothed out the surface, knocked down the glazing from use and cleaned almost all the rust off. I will need to pick up some new brake pads for the car, then I will change the front pads/rotors.
I also plan to change the rear pads while I do the front. The rear pads on the green car were basically new, so I pulled them. I'll use those ones on the Intrepid.
 #380753  by piperdog
 September 19th, 2019, 8:49 pm
Last weekend I finished replacing my leaking Bosch water pump, timing belt, tensioner, tensioner pulley, and the three seals behind the inner timing cover. There was no evidence of a leak from behind the inner timing cover but I chose to replace those seals so I would never have a problem in the future.

I was a bit apprehensive about pulling off the right cam sprocket but it turned out to be uneventful. I didn't use cam locks. I used the "find the happy place" method. The cam sprocket has a key that allows it to only move approximately the pitch of the timing belt teeth which is also the same as the distance between the timing marks on the inner timing cover. So one can't be off so far that valve damage would occur. However, even being one belt tooth off can impact even firing. In my case everything went back together ok and the timing is fine.

Too bad I only do this every seven years because now I'm actually quite fast at pulling everything apart and putting it back together!
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 #380769  by First Lady
 September 22nd, 2019, 8:14 am
Preped for winter prep by washing, claybaring, buffing, and ceramic coating my M yesterday. AKA- brushed its teeth, combed its hair, painted its nails, and freshened up makeup. Today, hope to take it for a calendar photo shoot. Stay tuned!!
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