What idiot bolts a car back together, getting ready for a car show, double checks that everything is back together right EXCEPT ONE THING, starts the engine, hears a gurgling sound, checks every fluid under the hood, finds nothing, then steps back and realizes the ONE THING was the trans cooler line still being disconnected from getting the freshly cleaned fan assembly back in.
It’s me. I’m idiot. On the plus side, I no longer have quite so many rolls of blue shop towels to store, and Luna has two fresh quarts of ATF+4 dumped into the trans.
That was quite the murder scene, seeing the expanding pool of red fluid under the car...
On top of that, my only 7mm wrench is now somewhere in the front of the car.
Sigh... the good news is is the trimmed cooler lines and fuel injection clamps seem to have stopped the leaks. The fan assembly is now mostly clean (after washing it a second time with the car down at the end of the driveway...) and 4200 pounds of gunk are now removed from the radiator assembly and subframe after years of slow leaks.
While the fascia was off for all this cleaning, I broke a headlight mount and the front impact absorber. Repaired the headlight mount again (second time) with different material this time. I had a spare perfect impact absorber, so that went on. The previous one had broken at the driver’s fixing point and I glued it back together a long while back, but it broke off again. Easy enough to unscrew it and screw in the perfect one that I had in the spare parts bin. I also installed the side guards on either side of the radiator that have been missing since the wreck (honestly no idea what they’re for, but they stick out in front of the crash bar... fascia support?).
All year (honestly for as long as I’ve had it, but it’s worse lately) I’ve been having trouble with Android Auto remaining connected while driving this car. It’s favorite thing to do lately is to repeatedly disconnect and either reconnect, or tell me its an unidentified USB device. Right now the M set up 100% the same as my Jeep. My Pixel 2 XL uses a USB-C to USB-A cable compatible with USB 3.1 (necessary for passing data to the head unit for Android Auto while charging the phone and keeping a good connection) to connect to a dual USB 3.0 pass-through device, which replaces the cigarette lighter socket in the car and provides a solid connection point on the dash to the radio. The pass-through is connected to the dual USB cables that run to the back of the Kenwood DDX-9903S (yes, same radio model for both vehicles).
I thought briefly that perhaps the 9903S in the M was showing its age, as it’s now 5 generations old and dates back to 2015. I bought it on the cheap as a factory refurb unit. But, the same model is in the Jeep with zero issues. I thought maybe it was the USB cable, as AA is finicky with cables and I was using aftermarket Aukey cables. But, the Aukey cable in the Jeep was fine, and when I used that known good cable in the M, the problem persisted. Using the cable from the M in the Jeep was perfectly fine. Now the concern is perhaps the cheap pass-through that I got from Amazon. Same model as the one the one the Jeep, but cheap Chinese tech can and does vary wildly. I popped out the console panels and reversed the USB cables so the AA USB to the radio switched positions at the pass-through. Jury is still out. Sitting the garage it was fine. Driving down the pock-marked road that services our development it did disconnect once, but didn’t the rest of the 10 minute cruise I did this afternoon. Not planning on taking apart the car again for a while other than to deaden the doors soon, so I’ll put on some miles and see what happens. If it continues, I’ll pull the radio’s cables through and connect directly to see what happens. I hope it’s not the radio because I don’t want to spend $800 on the latest model (and won’t get an older one if I can help it, I like getting the latest and making it last as long as I can), but having a bad pass-through is also bad because it’s the only one I could find that is a USB pass-through and not just a power point. Unless I can find one now that passes dual USB-C, which is much preferred but doesn’t exist in dual-USB form to have my Pixel running Android Auto and Nick’s iPhone also fast charging on the secondary port. We’ll see.
Finally, I also got the home link working. I thought it was earlier, but it stopped working. It was already programmed to the garage opener remote, so when the car was back in the driveway I stopped at the door and pressed the learn button on the opener, then each button in the homelink. Hopefully it stays working... the remote stopped working after doing that, so I had to relearn that. Currently the keypad, remote, and homelink are all working. Better stay that way.