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General Discussions about the 300M

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 #387645  by StealthM
 April 6th, 2021, 8:25 pm
Robert. That has to be the cleanest work table top I have ever seen.... are your strut rod bushing original? I replace mine about 4 years ago and they are already cracked. Might change them out when I do the lower ball joints.
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 #387653  by LUNAT1C
 April 7th, 2021, 10:33 am
StealthM wrote: April 6th, 2021, 8:25 pm Robert. That has to be the cleanest work table top I have ever seen.... are your strut rod bushing original? I replace mine about 4 years ago and they are already cracked. Might change them out when I do the lower ball joints.
I cleared away a bunch of junk right before getting started on this project. :lol: Once the garage is finished I'm hoping to keep it neat, with everything having its place. I need to replace the insulation on the exposed exterior wall next to Luna, then drywall it, re-tape and re-mud the the unfinished drywall everywhere else, prime and paint. Then put up whatever I need for organizing. Hopefully in May/June while the car is getting a minor body restoration done.

Strut rod and control arm are all factory original. The dry rot seen there has been happening for at least half of my stewardship of the car (12 years this month since I bought it). It still seemed fairly solid, but I wouldn't be shocked if it was contributing to some minor noise or shimmy along with the shot ball joint. I'm replacing the sway bar links as well due to the boots splitting, and those are Moog units installed when the struts were done 10 years/40,000 miles ago. 19 years and 138,000 miles on these strut rods and control arms.
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 #387657  by FIREM
 April 7th, 2021, 1:55 pm
Recently replaced Lower Control arms, Tension Strut bushings, and the ORIGONAL 216k mile tie rod ends!
Moog RK 7211 & 7213 Control arms.
 #387660  by 300mdriving Ferret
 April 7th, 2021, 6:25 pm
im new here I have a 1999 Chrysler 300m with bad gas fumes coming from fuel rail area. i cant do anything till payday . I am going to a friends house tomorrow he is going to check the fuel pressure. can I bypass the pressure regulator in the rail? I cant afford a new one that is if i can even still get one. Is it possible its just a bad o ring on an injector and i can just replace the o rings?. as for not driving the car anymore that is no option this has been going on a while. i am a single house hold and need to work to pay bills or i will be living in the car. can some body help. if it rurns out to be the fuel rail does any one here have one that is good? Thanks for the help
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 #387663  by Sneke_Eyez
 April 8th, 2021, 7:57 am
300mdriving Ferret wrote: April 7th, 2021, 6:25 pm im new here I have a 1999 Chrysler 300m with bad gas fumes coming from fuel rail area. i cant do anything till payday . I am going to a friends house tomorrow he is going to check the fuel pressure. can I bypass the pressure regulator in the rail? I cant afford a new one that is if i can even still get one. Is it possible its just a bad o ring on an injector and i can just replace the o rings?. as for not driving the car anymore that is no option this has been going on a while. i am a single house hold and need to work to pay bills or i will be living in the car. can some body help. if it rurns out to be the fuel rail does any one here have one that is good? Thanks for the help
I highly doubt it is the fuel rail itself.
These cars used a plastic/nylon line that ran from the metal gas line to the fuel rail and it can split over time.
The only "temporary" fix is to slice a section of fuel safe hose and clamp it onto the plastic line where the split is with appropriate clamps.
There are then other options for fixing it/replacing it, but get it temporarily fixed before your car burns to the ground...


I picked up my wheels that were leaking from the tire shop on Tuesday - but have not done a thing with them since.
They are simply leaning against the posts in my garage near the car on jackstands.
Today is my wife Ashley's birthday, so I don't see myself getting them on the car until at least tomorrow night.
But, luckily my excess of vehicles allowed me to drive the Fusion to work yesterday and the Ram this morning.

I managed to get home 12.5 miles last night on all electric power in the Fusion.
It has about 20 miles of pure electric range, I used 8ish on the way to work with EV turned off on the highway and used the remainder on the way home. Pretty fun to try and game the car to get the best mileage it can, a bit like a video game.
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 #387696  by First Lady
 April 11th, 2021, 8:48 pm
This afternoon we washed the black M, John’s M, and mine! It was fun to have them all lined up in the driveway and just move from one to the next. Zano on Johns and some spray wax on the other two for now. So nice to be out in the driveway in April!! Had to stop and put sunscreen on!!!
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Another awesome day in our new home!!
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 #387697  by LUNAT1C
 April 12th, 2021, 9:30 am
Looks like a nice and pretty little neighborhood there! Makes me wish I could go full remote, but I don't want to sell my house and move again anytime soon. :lol:

Yesterday I followed Bob's advice (who doesn't?) to get the new control arms and tension struts installed. My outer tie rods and sway bar links look ready for replacement as well with 10 years/40,000 miles on the sway bar links and 19 years/138,000 on the tie rod ends, but I put the car back down so I could enjoy it a bit and see if the control arms solved the issues. It feels less "jiggly", if that makes sense (old ball joints had both split and needed replacement), but there is still some knocking over what the rest of the country calls rough roads (we just call it a paved road, so much for the Governor's "fix the d*** roads!" campaign slogan). Next will be the sway bar links, and I'll inspect the sway bar bushings at the same time. Bob had installed Moog bushings in 2013 I think, maybe 20-25k ago. No idea how long those are supposed to last. If tie rods aren't especially hard to do (control arms were only difficult in getting the tension struts tightened down and trying to torque in close confines, did the best I could) I'll knock them out, then try to find a trustworthy place to do an alignment. I have the tie rods and adjustor sleeves already.

I had the whole car up on stands to also do the annual tire rotation, but since my only miles last year were driving it to the new house and to OC, I skipped it. Wondering if I should bother changing the synthetic oil. I usually do it annually, which tends to be about 5000 miles, but according my cost log on my maintenance tracking app, it was barely 2000 miles last year. Seems like a waste, and there is some debate on modern engines and synthetic oil needing that 12 month change. If I need to, then I'll need to do the black car as well and I'll just use basic oil since it has been driven less than a mile in the last two years.
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 #387698  by M-Pressive
 April 12th, 2021, 6:19 pm
LUNAT1C wrote: April 12th, 2021, 9:30 am Looks like a nice and pretty little neighborhood there! Makes me wish I could go full remote, but I don't want to sell my house and move again anytime soon. :lol:
10 months and we will be moving again.... As long as we like the Charleston area we will be buying or building a house here!
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 #387714  by LUNAT1C
 April 13th, 2021, 6:05 pm
General question about sway bushings. I went through my stash of collected parts that came with the black car for the sway bar components I knew were there. Found the Moog links. I thought the front bushings were also Moog, but turns out they're Mopar, made June 2007. Most folks use Moog (that is what I have now in front).

Options we have are
1) Mopar (rubber, 14 years old and new in package at this point)
2) Moog (thermoplastic for heat resistance)
3) AC Delco (polyurethane, similar the the poly bushings I have now in the rear)

Should I not bother with the old Mopar rubber ones, whether due to natural age of the rubber or simply because rubber wears out fast, stick to Moog since I have had it since 2013, switch to AC Delco PU bushings? I haven't heard of anyone using the AC Delcos in lieu of Moogs or the reason Moog is the most common other than it being improved over OEM rubber.

Trying to resolve a light knock in the front end over rough roads. Control arms and strut rods are done, sway bar links and bushings are next. Placing an order for inner tie rod bushings now to do for safety since mine are factory original (along with outer ends, which I have Moog replacements and adjustor sleeves for).
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 #387723  by FIREM
 April 14th, 2021, 7:41 am
Front sway bar bushings don't last long in our cars due to the way they are mounted. The links and bar move with every turn of the steering wheel. Mounted to the strut they not only transmit vertical forces across the front end but also move horizontally. This wears the bushings fast. I would be inclined to try the rubber OEM ones well lubed. The "hard" poly type, even when lubed, tend to wear from the side to side movement. Really not a hard job if they dont last.

Rears do NOT move horizontally when turning hence their longer life.
Bet the light knock is the bushings. Often "look" good but as the bar slides just enough to tap the sides of the K frame it plays a game of "who's there"
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 #387726  by In-trepid
 April 14th, 2021, 11:55 am
Bob, what do you recommend lubing the front sway bar bushings with?
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 #387727  by FIREM
 April 14th, 2021, 2:39 pm
I used the Green Goo that poly bushings came with. Now I have a 8oz tub of Silicone Based poly bushing lube from. Energy Suspensions (Amazon). Came with the Elcamino and is real sticky.
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 #387778  by LUNAT1C
 April 24th, 2021, 11:44 pm
Leave it to me and my uncanny ability to cross thread literally anything to muck up one of the easiest repairs on these cars.

I got started today replacing the sway bar bushings. Drivers side was fine, got that done once I figured out how to get the Mopar bushing with the "toothed opening" (no idea what to call it, it's not a straight slit) onto the bar. Bracket bolted on and torqued just fine.

Went to the passenger side and all was fine until I tried to reinstall the bracket. The front bolt was fine. The rear bolt, realizing I had not cross threaded anything yet and it was all set to not cross thread either (straight up and down), cross threaded about a third of the way in. I pulled it out and reinstalled it a few times hoping nothing was damaged, but I kept meeting some gradual resistance where the other bolts just smoothly threaded in.

Now the fun part. It's cross threading on the way back out as well now. I've got most of the bolt out, but now I need to use a titanic amount of force to move it. I get the feeling the bolt is going to break and be stuck in the subframe.

Good times right? I can't find any information for removing a bolt that has been cross threaded and now is stuck. It's all tips on rusted bolts, and drilling out broken bolts. I'm sure if I try to drill it out, the subframe will be destroyed. Same thing happened on a rear spindle (pinch bolt broke, tried to drill, had to replace the spindle).

When it rains it pours.
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 #387780  by FIREM
 April 25th, 2021, 7:35 am
The good news is that the holes for the sway bar bolts are open on the bottom of the K frame. So they can be drilled, tapped and rethreaded from the bottom. Getting the old one out is just going to take some brute force with some PB Blaster to ease the pain. A tap can be run from the bottom all the way thru the top to restore the threads.
(Voice of experience here LOL) M 10 1.5 is the thread size. Worst case it the threads are totally wasted, a much longer bolt with a nut could be used to repair the problem.
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 #387781  by LUNAT1C
 April 25th, 2021, 1:11 pm
That was my thought as well. Keep hitting it with blaster to get it out and retap from below. I was quite happy to see it open from the bottom, since the CV is right there from above.
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 #387789  by sdugasjr
 April 26th, 2021, 1:36 pm
Today I went about installing a woodgrain wheel I had purchased. Wasn’t a very difficult install but, if I’m being quite honest here, I was pretty scared of the airbag removal portion lol. Also installed an RB1/6 disc DVD/CD and a TV in my family's ‘01 Grand Caravan. I’m looking into installing SAT and Uconnect, but I would need a long harness to run the satellite if I want to retain the lower pocket in the center stack area.
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 #387790  by LUNAT1C
 April 26th, 2021, 5:13 pm
I got that bolt out without breaking it and picked up an Irwin/Hansen tap and die metric set. Hopefully it can save the bolt, but I bought another just in case.

I'll have to cobble together something to extend the tap though. The tool bottoms out on the subframe before the tap gets all the way through. Long shank taps appear to be unicorns... I found one that won't ship until June (I need to get the car to the body shop before that!) and specialty tool shops wants $400+ PER TAP. Also can't find any kind of extensions for taps. Hoping I can use a regular socket extension with some silicone to hold the tap in place for the last few millimeters that I need.

Also while laying on my creeper under the car inspecting the engine for the source of a very very very slow oil leak that is dripping off of the sway bay (drip spot on the cardboard I slipped under it a couple weeks ago was dry as a bone, weirdly), I looked around under the car to see how its holding up. Front resonator appears to have joined the local Sunday school, as it has started to become... hole-y... :lol: ...I'll see myself out.

The metal is starting to open up near the seam, and pressing on it revealed the seam is really only there for show these days. Time to study up on what can be done to repair before it opens up... and perhaps improve sound. Thinking of keeping it simple and replacing the one dual in dual out resonator with a pair of glasspack-style resonators, such as Magnaflow MagPacks. No desire to induce drone, so straight piping is out of the question. X-pipe I'm not so sure I want to do because of drone, and I'd then want to toss in all the chips and replace the transverse muffler with true dual pipes off the x-pipe/dual resonators to the Vortex mufflers at the back. Hard to find any 3.5L LX car videos so far with modified systems, most are newer 3.6 which is very different.
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 #387793  by FIREM
 April 27th, 2021, 7:19 am
Don’t remember if I used an extension to drive the tap or welded an extension on it. 1/4” extension may fit in the crossmember hole and grind down the tap hex to fit. Just some recommendations.
As far as the resonator, don’t wast a penny on attempted CPR. Maybe a decent exhaust shop could test fit some choices that sound good....
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 #387818  by First Lady
 May 2nd, 2021, 8:11 pm
Took my M to the DMV on Friday afternoon to get our new SC licenses and discovered my AC isn't working!!

Today we pulled the system and determined there is a very small leak. It took most of the day to go from -30 to -28. Small, yes but still there.

The black car is out of commission for a bit as the MA registration was up April 30th. Now with our new licenses we can move over the insurance and reregister the fleet. But, our next DMV appointment to register them is in 2 weeks. Soooo, it's going to be a bit before we can dig into mine and we'll just need to use it for now.

When we're able to, we'll pump in some of the glowing stuff and see if we can see what part needs replacing.

Never a dull moment!!
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 #387822  by LUNAT1C
 May 3rd, 2021, 11:34 am
First Lady wrote: May 2nd, 2021, 8:11 pm Took my M to the DMV on Friday afternoon to get our new SC licenses and discovered my AC isn't working!!

Today we pulled the system and determined there is a very small leak. It took most of the day to go from -30 to -28. Small, yes but still there.

The black car is out of commission for a bit as the MA registration was up April 30th. Now with our new licenses we can move over the insurance and reregister the fleet. But, our next DMV appointment to register them is in 2 weeks. Soooo, it's going to be a bit before we can dig into mine and we'll just need to use it for now.

When we're able to, we'll pump in some of the glowing stuff and see if we can see what part needs replacing.

Never a dull moment!!
I see MA is getting back at you for fleeing the weather! SC isn't the place to be without A/C, for sure.

Hopefully with a leak that small it's just a suction line or a seal, much easier to replace versus the usual culprit. Our black car is still empty, probably something I need to take care of before we seriously consider selling it to make room for a family heirloom... a Ford, of all things. :roll:
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