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General Discussions about the 300M and other LHs

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 #389352  by EasyRider300M
 
Battery is in great condition. Sometime it starts just fine....load voltage is about 10 volts so not the battery.....Sometimes I will hear a strong click and then nothing....sometimes several clicks with no start... if I have the lights on while trying to start, if it clicks, they may go completely off, then come back on and radio /cd lights blink. What else could it be besides starter? I checked battery connections...all look fine.

If it is the starter, how long would it take a mechanic to replace a starter? Is it hard to get to?
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 #389353  by FIREM
 
EasyRider300M wrote: October 14th, 2021, 9:42 pm Battery is in great condition. Sometime it starts just fine....load voltage is about 10 volts so not the battery.....Sometimes I will hear a strong click and then nothing....sometimes several clicks with no start... if I have the lights on while trying to start, if it clicks, they may go completely off, then come back on and radio /cd lights blink. What else could it be besides starter? I checked battery connections...all look fine.

If it is the starter, how long would it take a mechanic to replace a starter? Is it hard to get to?
Connections "LOOK" fine? Disassemble and clean them all FIRST. Ground stud, Jump Post & battery Block ground rear of engine,
Click/Click usually indicates starter contacts.
Click/Click with dimming lights indicates a voltage problem, either battery or connections.
Battery Load Test? 50%CCA for 15 seconds, nothing less than 9.5 v right?
Modern Conductance CCA test (free at auto parts stores) is even better. viewtopic.php?f=93&t=19034
2 Hour Job to swap if needed.
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 #389355  by Sneke_Eyez
 
As Bob said, starter requires removal of engine mount, so time consuming.
I'd look at battery connections first, double check battery doesn't have any issues when cranking - I was having a problem with my Ram and it turned out to be a dead cell in the battery.
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 #389357  by EasyRider300M
 
Sometimes it will start normally without any drop below 10 volts during cranking. Other times I turn the key and absolutely nothing happens and lights on dvd player may blink on and off. Battery is fairly new. New battery clamps were installed two years ago. I cleaned topside negative and positive posts. Grounds were checked by Ryan.

I only drive about 1200 miles a year and car is on a battery maintainer most of the time.
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 #389358  by EasyRider300M
 
well, I am now able to start the car by jumping it so I guess it's not the starter. I thoroughly cleaned the positive topside battery connections (it's a pain to get all the nuts off...I filed the nuts etc and reassembled. So I guess it's possible a bad battery. I only have like 2 years and 2400 miles on the battery.
 #389359  by user97
 
This behavior seems to be consistent with bad solenoid contacts (single loud solenoid click and no action). I had to replace the contacts in the solenoid to address this issue on one LH at 168K and 240K on another. Contacts are cheap, but the starter still has to come out (or you can replace the entire starter).
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 #389360  by EasyRider300M
 
As stated in my last post, it does start with a jump and alternator puts out 13.80 volts so I believe it's all pointing to the battery as jump posts have been cleaned throughly and battery has fairly new clamps and were coated with corrosion proctectant when installing.
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 #389361  by In-trepid
 
EasyRider300M wrote: October 15th, 2021, 3:50 pm As stated in my last post, it does start with a jump and alternator puts out 3.80 volts so I believe it's all pointing to the battery as jump posts have been cleaned throughly and battery has fairly new clamps and were coated with corrosion proctectant when installing.
I hope you mean 13.80 volts from the alternator. Otherwise, we know what the problem is.
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 #389362  by EasyRider300M
 
yes 13.80 volts from alternator...corrected my post :ohwell
 #389363  by RobNJ
 
If other lights are dimming, sounds like high resistance in the main battery leads or rather corrosion. Don't forget the negative lead goes from the battery to the strut tower, before the rest of the vehicle wiring. Check that connection as well.
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 #389371  by EasyRider300M
 
If the starter works and car starts when jumping would that indicate the starter is fine? I want to have the starter connections checked and cleaned. Are the connections easily accessible if car is on a lift?
 #389387  by Countachqv
 
I just had the starter replaced on my black one. 147K miles about.
Here is how I figured it if this helps:
1. Clean all battery contacts.
2. load test the battery.

if all above done pay attention if the car starts better cold than hot. It cold better than hot start it IS the starter. All symptoms are like a weak battery. Barely cranking.
I had the work done by a mechanic. I did not have it in me to do another starter. $537.
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 #389388  by EasyRider300M
 
I believe they ended up replacing battery. Problem solved. Battery only had 2 years and 2000 miles on it. It was covered under warrantee.
 #389389  by Countachqv
 
Ok. then the battery load test must have failed
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 #389390  by LUNAT1C
 
Hopefully that's all it was. Early battery failure is not unusual. I had an Advance Autocraft Platinum AGM battery fail after only 6 months, replaced under warranty. I had the replacement installed for 5 years before it started showing signs of permanent damage from repeated drains and I put in a rebranded Northstar AGM battery.
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 #389393  by EasyRider300M
 
I was surprised as it keep the battery on a maintainer most of the time.