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General Discussions about the 300M and other LHs

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 #389298  by TrepKing95
 
Sneke_Eyez wrote: September 29th, 2021, 4:02 pm Well I got the valve body and solenoid changed with Jimmy's help.
Thanks to Keith, Lindsey, and Bob for answering their phones at certain points to help with my questions.
A messy process and I learned some things despite this being the 4th time I've done the job.
I also changed the oil pressure sender. And now it is flickering worse than it was before.
I put di-electric grease in the connector and I assume that's causing the flickering, which is frustrating.
Also changed the differential fluid.
When I have a few minutes I will sit down and add some information to the knowledgebase topics for these jobs.
I had a 2018 Journey with the 2.4L one time with an intermittent Oil Pressure warning light... Wound up being that another dealer had replaced the connector for rodent damage and had packed it full of dielectric grease... Apparently the sensors have to be able to "breathe" (equalize to atmospheric pressure) to function properly. Sure enough, I used a generous amount of contact cleaner and the issue never happened again.
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 #389312  by Sneke_Eyez
 
TrepKing95 wrote: October 7th, 2021, 6:59 pm
Sneke_Eyez wrote: September 29th, 2021, 4:02 pm Well I got the valve body and solenoid changed with Jimmy's help.
Thanks to Keith, Lindsey, and Bob for answering their phones at certain points to help with my questions.
A messy process and I learned some things despite this being the 4th time I've done the job.
I also changed the oil pressure sender. And now it is flickering worse than it was before.
I put di-electric grease in the connector and I assume that's causing the flickering, which is frustrating.
Also changed the differential fluid.
When I have a few minutes I will sit down and add some information to the knowledgebase topics for these jobs.
I had a 2018 Journey with the 2.4L one time with an intermittent Oil Pressure warning light... Wound up being that another dealer had replaced the connector for rodent damage and had packed it full of dielectric grease... Apparently the sensors have to be able to "breathe" (equalize to atmospheric pressure) to function properly. Sure enough, I used a generous amount of contact cleaner and the issue never happened again.
That's good information to know.
The flickering has reduced dramatically, but I need to fix it - seeing that oil pressure light flickering sometimes is anxiety-inducing even if I know the car is running well.
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 #389314  by adu1982
 
Mine flickered a few times, than the day it did constantly to and back from work...some top bang ...haven't opened it up...having multiple cars, and the lack of time makes me take a while until I check things.. still don't know what's up with the special.....

Sent from my motorola one 5G ace using Tapatalk

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 #389472  by LUNAT1C
 
Yes, this group has taught me everything I know about working on cars. 10 years ago I couldn't imagine doing a timing belt, replacing rocker assemblies, replacing a radiator, replacing an AC system, or diagnosing and repairing two separate misfire issues one year apart. Yet here I am having done timing belts on two cars, and rockers and AC one one, plus the radiator and fixing those misfires on a completely different vehicle, my Jeep. Even helped in learning that my Jeeps torque converter was giving out and guided the dealer in drawing the same conclusion to have it repaired under warranty two years ago. If I lost my M today, I'd still come to the meets in the Jeep or the Durango.
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 #389498  by First Lady
 
Took M-Pressive to a Trunk and Treat! Had to look the part, ya know!!

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 #389720  by svwings
 
LUNAT1C wrote: March 5th, 2021, 10:36 am Funny story on pulling yard seats... last weekend I went to a different yard to check their stock (the car I was trying to get that seat and dash from was scrapped and pulled from their inventory). I found a landau roof silver Special with a good uncracked dash that now resides in my basement.

The funny bit is the seats also did not work in this car, and this time the seats were rolled all the way forward. So, they HAD to come out to get the dash out. I had my battery impact with me, so it wasn't a big deal. Rear bolts zipped right out, and some finagling with a standard extension (I have no impact extensions) got the front ones out lickety split. Just seems funny that I went from one car with nonworking seats rolled all the way back, to one with them rolled all the way forward.

I also got a decent wood wheel and black with real wood shifter bezel from an LHS. Someone had already pulled the wheel for me and it was sitting in the seat!
I am faced with a similar problem and your report gives me hope. My driver's side seat is jammed in a mostly rearward position (One of worm screws does not turn) and the rear bolts are covered by the slider. In order to replace the seat adjuster (i've ordered one from a wrecking yard) I need to get the bad one out.

Other than what you've said, any other tips of comments?

Is it possible to remove the seat itself from the adjuster with it still in the car?
 #389723  by TrepKing95
 
svwings wrote: November 23rd, 2021, 3:24 pm
LUNAT1C wrote: March 5th, 2021, 10:36 am Funny story on pulling yard seats... last weekend I went to a different yard to check their stock (the car I was trying to get that seat and dash from was scrapped and pulled from their inventory). I found a landau roof silver Special with a good uncracked dash that now resides in my basement.

The funny bit is the seats also did not work in this car, and this time the seats were rolled all the way forward. So, they HAD to come out to get the dash out. I had my battery impact with me, so it wasn't a big deal. Rear bolts zipped right out, and some finagling with a standard extension (I have no impact extensions) got the front ones out lickety split. Just seems funny that I went from one car with nonworking seats rolled all the way back, to one with them rolled all the way forward.

I also got a decent wood wheel and black with real wood shifter bezel from an LHS. Someone had already pulled the wheel for me and it was sitting in the seat!
I am faced with a similar problem and your report gives me hope. My driver's side seat is jammed in a mostly rearward position (One of worm screws does not turn) and the rear bolts are covered by the slider. In order to replace the seat adjuster (i've ordered one from a wrecking yard) I need to get the bad one out.

Other than what you've said, any other tips of comments?

Is it possible to remove the seat itself from the adjuster with it still in the car?
I had an experience doing that very thing at a junkyard; make sure you have the complete lower seat frame ready before you start; I tried it with my Milwaukee power adapter, and the seat just bound up trying to adjust. I wound up taking out the front 2 bolts, then using a rather interesting "Rocking Chair" method to weaken and break the rear attaching points off of the frame. It didn't look like I bent the seat attaching points on the vehicle when I did it, but that would be my only concern doing it "in the field" as opposed to on a vehicle with one wheel in the crusher.
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 #389726  by LUNAT1C
 
I would zip out the fronts like normal, and use a standard wrench on the rears. It'll take a minute, but patience will win the day. It is not possible to remove the seat from the seat track while still in the car. I've tried.
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