100K Water Pump And Timing Belt Thread Q&A

[coatsy]

What is the 5 percent code?

[beman39]

question! do I need to get the "kit" or can I get away with just changing the WP & TB only? it will cost me $900 with labor to get the "kit" and change everything, as apposed to $590 to change just the W.P. and T.B.

[In-trepid]

Somebody is ripping you off! The cost in parts difference is about $80. For the labor, the kit will save a few minute because the hydraulic tensioner will need to come out and be compressed vs putting the new one in which is already compressed and only needs the pin pulled. The idler replacement is a 5 minute job bolt out/bolt in. It will take less time than compressing the hydraulic tensioner. An upcharge of $310 is not reasonable.

[Sneke_Eyez]

Somebody is ripping you off! The cost in parts difference is about $80. For the labor, the kit will save a few minute because the hydraulic tensioner will need to come out and be compressed vs putting the new one in which is already compressed and only needs the pin pulled. The idler replacement is a 5 minute job bolt out/bolt in. It will take less time than compressing the hydraulic tensioner. An upcharge of $310 is not reasonable.

This^^^^^!

That is an unreasonable charge for the difference in the jobs.
Seems you are being undercharged for the TB/WP only job and then charged about in-line for the full job.
That is a strange tactic in my opinion.

[cin993]

I recently had a small coolant leak under the crank pulley. No noise or warning, just a puddle on the floor. Pulled the timing belt cover for a look. Of course my water pump was pissing:

IMG_0443.JPG

I only got 50k miles out of this AC Delco water pump...very disappointing. Terrible quality control

Four or five years ago i used the AC Delco kit TCPWP295-- I DO NOT recommend this kit since i barley got 50k miles out of the pump...it sucks.

This time around i ordered an OEM Mopar water pump- came with a metal impeller. (The leaking AC Delco wp was plastic, as was my original 11year, 130k miles wp)

I also ordered a new Melling BT357 tensioner bearing. Very happy with it. Comes with a NSK "Made in Japan" bearing. And the metal on the outer race of the bearing is about twice as thick as the cheap AC Delco bearing (GMB, green in color).

IMG_0457- NSK jananese bearing!.JPG

S2280010.JPG

Put in a new gates timing belt, reused the Aisin hydraulic tensioner, with new zerex go5 and all is well again.

I did not use the cam locks this time. But i had no problems lining up the timing marks. And i saved lots of time

[dcsally97]

Reused the tensioner? It would've been worth it to change just for piece of mind. Fingers crossed it lasts.

[In-trepid]

If the hydraulic tensioner isn't leaking, I would reuse it. Probably the second time around I would replace it for sure though.

[LUNAT1C]

I’ve yet to replace my tensioner, and have replaced the belt twice. I may at the next belt change, likely somewhere between 150k and 160k.

[Jack3115]

Hello. I’m due for a timing belt and water pump change. I was wondering if anyone has had any good luck with the metal propeller mopar water pump since they don’t make the plastic propeller anymore. I was thinking of getting one from carquest if the mopar one is not good. Thank you!

[M-Pressive]

Hello. I’m due for a timing belt and water pump change. I was wondering if anyone has had any good luck with the metal propeller mopar water pump since they don’t make the plastic propeller anymore. I was thinking of getting one from carquest if the mopar one is not good. Thank you!

I will only use the Mopar water pump moving forward with the metal impellor. There is a newer part number on the forums that you can order and it is not value line.

[monte4]

My car is due for timing belt, etc. next spring (will be 5 years). With the disappearing factory parts I went ahead and ordered the water pump (with metal impeller) and seal using the part #'s from the forum from my local dealer. Came in today and it is the correct pump with metal impeller.

[adu1982]

I just looked online for that part number (68382487AA) and the online seller dealers show the plastic impeller one. Is there another part number that I'm missing. I do have a old old stock one I'll use on the lhs in the next weeks but i need a good one because the 7 years are almost up on the base.

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[monte4]

I got one from my local dealer just a couple weeks ago. Part # on box is 6838 2487 AA -001

[adu1982]

Thanks I'll just go dealer route like you to be sure

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[LUNAT1C]

This year I installed a NOS water pump from 2006 that I've had in my stash for almost a decade, along with a new Mopar gasket (Rock Auto) - the shape is different from the one aftermarket pumps come with, I have no evidence to support but I wonder if that is one of the big issues, I opened my timing housing to find the previous A/M gasket failed.

Plan is to pull the inspection cover in 5 years and evaluate. If it's still dry in there, take it to 7 years and buy the new Mopar part number from the dealer. I might pick one or two up sooner than that, *just in case* it goes the way of all the other good OEM parts over the last decade and gets discontinued.

[monte4]

I also got a new factory gasket when I got the new water pump. Factory part # on bag is 0465 9430 AB. You guys in the U.S. sure get good prices on your factory parts compared to here in Canada. For the new factory water pump and the seal it was right at $300 Canadian from my local Chrysler dealer.

[adu1982]

I think i may have one in stock but i ordered two from rock auto, with the gates kit. Always used Mopar it doesn't just look better but fils the gap better you can feel it. Rock auto doesn't show it in the lhs catalog but if you search them by part number they have it most of the times. Same with the smaller ones for the timing cover. I think their about 13 and 15$ each. Amazon has them two for a good price.

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[grayslater]

Just ordered the AC Delco water pump from Rockauto ("gray iron" propeller). I was informed that the water pump had just been replaced with an OEM back in Feb-March.

[adu1982]

That's a leak i see right????... Damn ...after a couple of months..

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[FIREM]

Tensioner looks a little "crusty" , may be residue from the weep hole. Just be sure it is not from the housing to block oring above that area.