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Discussions on suspension & steering repairs or upgrades.

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 #375416  by LH Platform
 August 29th, 2018, 5:33 am
Sneke_Eyez wrote: August 28th, 2018, 1:40 pm You got it, you can use the adjustable - and I would recommend that you do, and that you tell the shop that then does a 4 wheel alignment on your car that it is now all properly adjustable to get the right settings in the rear.

Cradle bushings are only necessary if yours are worn out.
That was a bigger problem with the LHS and Concorde than with the 300M/Intrepid.

I would do the strut mounts though unless you are going to re-use your stock ones.
Do you mean replace the aftermarket strut mounts with Mopar instead of just tightening the nut on top of the aftermarket mount? I won't be reusing the factory ones as one has started to seize after the car sat. I opened to caps on top of the mounts to find water almost all the way to the top. Hard plastic caps expected to seal, I do not know what they were thinking.

I was considering getting Quick-Struts and replacing the mounts with brand new Mopar ones on the front, but after hearing about success once tightening the nut on the aftermarket mounts, it seems easy enough and worth a try.


Steve From MA wrote:
LH Platform wrote: August 28th, 2018, 7:18 am Replace them ASAP if you haven't done so yet, I had a line rupture and was expecting to still have somewhat 50%. It was NOWHERE near that. The other lines ended up breaking as soon as I touched them. I am not exaggerating.

Is the rear sway bar the same diameter as the one in the front? Also on the rear, there are two lateral links per side. Are they both adjustable and the same part #?
What he said. I had one break on our white car pulling out of a parking lot and I had to use the e brake the car became undrivable as soon as the rear line went.
Same, one of the rears. I used to always take comfort in the fact that both diagonals couldn't possibly break at the same time and cause it to lose the brakes completely - that is no longer the case. When just one of the rear lines went and the fluid drained, the pads on all 4 rotors eventually had ZERO stopping power. Absolutely nothing at all. I still can't understand why as the other front and rear should not have been affected. Would that be worn pistons inside the master cylinder causing fluid from the chamber that had not experienced the line failure to leak into the one with the broken line each time the brakes were being applied? Thus slowly emptying the fluid from both diagonals?
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 #375418  by Sneke_Eyez
 August 29th, 2018, 9:55 am
Steve From MA wrote: August 28th, 2018, 3:33 pm Looks a lot like the list I went for when I redid my front and rear suspension. A couple things of note there seem to be several versions of the front and rear Moog sway bar links (problem solvers) with the same part numbers. There are differences in the bolt size on the front ones and I have found both sealed rears and rears that use a bottom bolt and 2 removable bushings. I found the later setup a lot better built as I broke one of the sealed units top stems trying to remove after a year in service.

Have you used the pro forged parts before? They look well built do you know the country of origin? I put in napa pro parts which were in fact the same as the ac delco pro's shown on rock auto. (not the mevo's they use for the picture) - One was made in the usa the other in Mexico - so far they have 40k miles with no issues - along with the rest of the parts you have listed above.

Also the moog tie rod ends and front sway bar links all had lubing fittings not sealed like some of the online pictures.
Yes, the Moog parts all have lube fittings. I have been trying to remember to check on them periodically to make sure they are lubed.

I used pro-forged parts on my wagon and was impressed with their quality.
I believe many of their parts are made in Taiwan, but everything has become such a crapshoot in terms of where it is made now and quality, I just wanted to try something different than the standard stuff other people have used so far.

The quality of the Moog front end links has gotten so bad that I'm up to replacing them about every year/year and a half.
Next time I'm going to try some AC Delcos, as Scott has been impressed with them.
 #375512  by Tyallis
 September 6th, 2018, 7:55 pm
Sneke_Eyez,
Just in case it slips through the cracks, I did send you a personal message on this topic:
Going back to the earlier posts in 2015, did we ever resolve the debate on OEM mounts not coming with bearings? I ordered a set from my local Chrysler dealer today, and they could not confirm this either. If so, where does a guy source these? A part number?

Also:
Do you know of a code that may work for discounts on RockAuto for club members? Thanks in advance.
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 #375516  by Sneke_Eyez
 September 7th, 2018, 9:31 am
Tyallis wrote: September 6th, 2018, 7:55 pm Sneke_Eyez,
Just in case it slips through the cracks, I did send you a personal message on this topic:
Going back to the earlier posts in 2015, did we ever resolve the debate on OEM mounts not coming with bearings? I ordered a set from my local Chrysler dealer today, and they could not confirm this either. If so, where does a guy source these? A part number?

Also:
Do you know of a code that may work for discounts on RockAuto for club members? Thanks in advance.
Tyler,
I saw your PM and will reply, but I think this information is better shared in this thread.

First, welcome to the Club!

Second, and to keep it short:
The bearings used to come with the mounts, but no longer do.

The mount part #s are: (R)4782018AB (L)4782019AB
The bearing part # is: 68140264AA

See this thread for information about strut bearings and mounts:
https://300mclub.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=75&t=33091

As for a RockAuto Code:
8955672981483357 is the most recent one we have here on the forums.

See this thread for Rockauto codes now and in the future:
https://300mclub.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=13362

Good luck with your suspension project!
 #375517  by Tyallis
 September 7th, 2018, 9:50 am
Ryan, thanks for the info. I found a cheepy set on Rock Auto from API on Wholesale Closeout. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 43&jsn=870
No idea how they compare to factory units. Is it safe to assume that since the aftermarket mounts are kind of a "no-no", that the bearings would be the same song?
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 #375519  by Sneke_Eyez
 September 7th, 2018, 11:54 am
I think the problem with the aftermarket mounts tends to revolve around the fact that the aftermarket does not make them properly "to side", with the mount clocked the right way, and the quality of the bearings offered in the aftermarket.
I am not sure I could trust those, myself.
If you look at this thread (I believe it is this thread), I had issues with even KYB rear strut mounts, which I ended up returning because of clunking in my Special.
I recently bough Sachs rear strut mounts, but have not had the motivation to put them in yet to know whether they are any good.
 #375560  by Countachqv
 September 11th, 2018, 5:24 pm
I now use pre-assembled KYB fron and rear. I do not modify anything. Reason is time saving . I had 0 issues with them. Do not use Monroe. I had nothing but issue like clunking.
That said I am not sure what I am doing wrong but I did not experience any issues with mounts or anything else like some have here. I have both dailies running on stock KYB.
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 #377620  by M-Pressive
 February 6th, 2019, 11:58 am
I will be using this thread when doing a full overhaul on the daily this spring.

Everything is tired and in need of replacement.
wolvie48 liked this
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 #378584  by Sneke_Eyez
 April 9th, 2019, 2:28 pm
Thread back from winter hiatus!
Bobby (SilverSpecial6.1) has been driving my Special for the last several days and believes my rear end noise is caused by bad rear lateral links, which have never been replaced.

The knocking drives me nuts, so I ordered 4 adjustable ones today and I hope he is right.
After discussion with Bobby, we determined that my OEM strut mounts appear to be pretty rusty, so I ordered OEM replacement strut mounts and bearings as well.

More expenses, but I'm getting closer to fixing the front suspension for good!
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 #378788  by LUNAT1C
 April 23rd, 2019, 3:45 pm
Threads like this make me nervous. As soon as I can find a bit of real wood, I'll vigorously rap my knuckles on it... but at 133,000 miles my Special has only had the struts (OEM), spring isolaters (Johnny), front sway bar bushings and endlinks (Moog), front strut mounts (OEM), and rear sway bar bushings (Johnny, I think) replaced. All done in 2010 and 2011. Currently the ride is good with almost no noise, other than the occasional squeak that I chalk up to sitting so much. I do need to remember to grease the moog front endlinks on my Special and the JKS quick disconnect endlinks on my Jeep when I rotate each vehicles tires next month.

Control arms, lateral links, tension struts, outer tie rods, inner tie rods, etc. etc. etc, are all brand new as well... that is if the flux capacitor starts working and takes us back to April 4th, 2002, in the quaint little village of Brampton, ON! :D (TL;DR, all of that is original).

The black car, I've noticed, comparatively rides like a cloud. I'm not sure what has been replaced on that one, but it has 136,000 miles and I know it has Interceptor-spec struts and springs, and the front sway bar bushings were done. I seem to recall Cory selling because he was tired of chasing a noise, which turned out to be the sway bar bushings.

I might be inclined to chalk up the difference in ride comfort and lack of noise to be the newer Police struts versus the somewhat older (in the car for 8+ years now) Special struts, but I would think they would be roughly similar, unlike the cavernous gap between Special and Luxury struts.

All I do, at every annual tire rotation, is try to move the wheels fore/aft up/down, in/out both laterally and longitudinally. I've yet to find untoward play, so I haven't replaced anything else. My Charger, on other hand, when it needed outer tie rod ends had a great deal of play during that test.

Save to assume that with the absence of unusual noises, unusually harsh ride, and unusual unloaded wheel movement, that I shouldn't be concerned? Hoping to to have the same luck as my Dad's old 1998 Tahoe. 250,000 miles when he sold it, with the original ball joints that every dealer he took it to in NJ and FL gave a clean bill of health. He only ever changed the shocks, both A/C systems, and had the trans rebuilt (and headliner and front seat cushions repaired). I'm already well ahead with a trans rebuild, engine/trans mounts, struts, sway bar bushings, and axles having been replaced!
 #379771  by allella
 July 12th, 2019, 1:22 pm
I had a mechanic put on KYBs on the front and he gave me back the Monroe 905989 and said the weren't needed because the springs rested in the upper bearings.

That seems to contradict a lot of the conversation here.

I know the OEM foam ones dissolve so maybe having no upper isolators will be like having worn out foam ones, but should I be concerned not having Monroe 905989 upper front isolators?
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 #379826  by Sneke_Eyez
 July 16th, 2019, 11:22 am
Yes, you should be concerned.
Take them back to him and tell him they should be installed and the springs are not meant to rest in the bearings.
They weren't that way from the factory, so there is no reason they should be that way now.