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Discussions on suspension & steering repairs or upgrades.

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 #379383  by Mottman
 June 17th, 2019, 7:09 pm
Atlasrising2,

Without seeing the car in person its hard to tell 100%,
But have you checked you'r rotors, pads & calipers ?

A badly warped rotor ( caused by a seized caliper or over torqued
wheel lug-nuts ) can cause shaking.
If the steering-wheel shakes when your braking , the issue is in the front end.
If it feels like the seat or whole car, than its usually the rear end.
I once saw a car with a bad tire do something like this
( shifted belt ).

And make sure you'r mechanic is using an ACCURATELY CALIBRATED TORQUE-WRENCH
on the wheel lugs.
Those stupid torque-sticks are wildly inaccurate when using a 600+ ft/lbs impact-gun
to bolt up the wheels.
They are only SOMEWHAT accurate when using a 250 ft/lbs impact-gun.
( and I still wouldn't trust em ! )

let us know what you find out & Good luck.

The EVIL Sickness, DARKFIRE & VIX3N

LOUDER THAN GOD'S REVOLVER & TWICE AS SHINY !
User avatar
 #379508  by ThaJuggla817
 June 24th, 2019, 6:25 pm
300maximilien wrote: October 15th, 2012, 7:21 am
shadowvox6 wrote:You CAN use Quick Struts IF you replace the Struts Mounts, and the Strut Bearings with OEM parts.
I did that with mine, and have had no issues since the install in July.

If you just slap in the Quick Struts, you will be doomed...
I think Larry is saying he used "OEM mounts and bearings" and had a failure in less than 500 miles. His "quick struts" were Monroes.....maybe your MOOGs are a better choice?
*bump*

I have the moogs and just had an alignment done today. Came back 'not able to be aligned'. Tie rod ends are bottomed out with the adjustment sleeve.... Well, I'm not even going to beat around the bush, you start slinging the alignment lingo around and I'm the immigrant at the DMV. The shop in question is trying to tell me that it's the struts, but I just don't see it, especially when they lead the conversation with "well you have two different tie rods"....

So, I guess my question is what do you guys think would be the next best move? Two and a half years and I'm so close to having my M back on the roads again. (good news is that she passed inspection, but what's the point if she's just going to chew through 2 tires every 200 or so miles?)

Tear down, r&r? (although I don't like it, look forward to it, nor want to continue shelling out money on the thousands scale, let alone the mid-high hundreds)

Just give up, scrap the body, and sell the motor and try to recoup some money?

Gah, this has my stomach in knots..

Thoughts or suggestions on how to proceed with this one would be very helpful.

Initial Camber-
Left: 1.8
Right: 0.8

Caster-
Left: 3.8
Right: 2.6

Toe-
Left: - 4.35
Right: - 0.90
Total: - 5.25

Final Camber
L: 1.8
R: 0.8

Caster
L: 4.1
R: 2.7

Toe
L: - 4.60
R: - 0.65
Total: - 5.25



Dont know what any of this information means, so maybe a translation or simplification would be helpful, because I'm not understanding what the exact nature of the problem is, but I am definitely aware of the anomaly of these numbers and something not being right. I mean, if that wasn't enough, then holding the wheel straight while the car commits to a left hand turn would be obvious enough(hopefully).

Thanks

*Edit* After a little bit of thought, I'm leaning toward replacing the two completely different types of inner tie rods. Any opinion is welcome.
User avatar
 #379573  by ThaJuggla817
 June 28th, 2019, 6:15 pm
Nadda? Hmmm... Alrighty, well I suppose it'll just have to wait until a decent day off.... The upside is that it passed inspection and is now registered. Just gotta fix this problem and then my M will be back on the roads after two years of overhaul.
User avatar
 #379659  by Sneke_Eyez
 July 3rd, 2019, 1:34 pm
The idea of two different tie rods being a problem is outrageous to me unless we're talking about inner tie rods.
If you still have one OEM style and one 2 piece style then I can understand how that may cause an issue.

Unfortunately though in these types of situations my approach is to replace the outer tie rods and sleeves and have the car re-aligned, probably somewhere else.

If they can't tell you why the car won't align, that's a suspicious issue on their part.

PS: I think you'd get a lot more responses if you'd posted this in your own thread about the problem.
User avatar
 #379665  by Mottman
 July 3rd, 2019, 9:34 pm
Juggla817,

Seems like these guys are jerkin you around.
Go to a different shop.
Im not 100% sure, but I believe the
tie-rods are different lengths on each side.
( will check this tomorrow ).

Yes, aftermarket struts sometimes can alter the toe setting.
 #379675  by skinnyg
 July 4th, 2019, 4:39 pm
I put economy monroe quick struts on mine, at the same time I did outter tie rods, lower arms, the track rods, sway bushings and links, well everything really, but I had already put moog inner tie rod split bushings in about 6mths before that, and I had no problems for a year and a half or so until I sold the car. I did have to retighten the top strut nuts a couple weeks later, but I expected that. I really dont see any reason to put inner tie rods in, it's a rod with a hole on one end and thread on the other, unless its damaged. I would rather have the factory rod with the moog split poly bushings.
Anyways sounds like the tech doing it is an idiot, bottomed out? Does he know that not just the sleeve spins but you can pop out the outer joint and spin the tie rod too? If it was bottomed out the wheel would be pointing inwards like if you turned the wheel around twice.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

User avatar
 #379678  by Mottman
 July 4th, 2019, 8:19 pm
Juggla817,

Here is a crude explanation of car alignment angles
& what each one means.

I still think you should take the car to someone else.
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