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Discussions on suspension & steering repairs or upgrades.

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 #380656  by dcsally97
 
Mine is a base with KYB's. I'm very happy with them.
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 #380665  by Sneke_Eyez
 
KYBs are the only struts I would consider, honestly.
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 #380667  by LUNAT1C
 
Another thought I'm having... is it worthwhile to get another set of front mounts and bearings now and keep in a box in the basement for when I might need them 5-10 years from now... or do they have an expiration date... such as the grease drying up in the bearings. I question how much longer OEM replacement will be available given the rate of OEM parts being discontinued. Rather not be caught with my pants down, and rather not spend the money and find out they're junk when I do end up needing them. 34,000 on the front strut mounts now, and about 5000 miles added each year.
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 #380668  by adu1982
 
I've been thinking about that two for the LHS (a set to have) and a set to just do them. It still rides great (Florida car) but I'm wondering if it will feel different if I do them with kybș.....the aftermarket quality is what stoped me from doing them till now . The base (my lowest miles) being a PA car actually feels like it might need them, ride wise (no sounds) but since I don't plan on keeping it much longer....it is not on my time schedule anyways.

Been thinking about them.for the LHS for a while just don't wanna put the work to end up with any clunks a few months in and a rough ride. One of the main reasons I love the LHS over the special.in long drives it just floats unlike my special that feels ruff , more like a sports , stiff suspension.

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 #380683  by Sneke_Eyez
 
LUNAT1C wrote: September 11th, 2019, 1:01 pm Another thought I'm having... is it worthwhile to get another set of front mounts and bearings now and keep in a box in the basement for when I might need them 5-10 years from now... or do they have an expiration date... such as the grease drying up in the bearings. I question how much longer OEM replacement will be available given the rate of OEM parts being discontinued. Rather not be caught with my pants down, and rather not spend the money and find out they're junk when I do end up needing them. 34,000 on the front strut mounts now, and about 5000 miles added each year.
It is always a thought.
I can't see the grease in the bearings going bad as long as they are kept in proper storage conditions.
Plus, you could always re-grease them.

For me, I could see buying the mounts and bearings for the Intrepid, which I do plan to keep forever, but I can't see myself keeping the Special long enough to need to do the mounts again, as I have to expect they've got at least another 100k in them and at least another 10 years.
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 #380685  by LUNAT1C
 
Sneke_Eyez wrote: September 12th, 2019, 1:44 pm
LUNAT1C wrote: September 11th, 2019, 1:01 pm Another thought I'm having... is it worthwhile to get another set of front mounts and bearings now and keep in a box in the basement for when I might need them 5-10 years from now... or do they have an expiration date... such as the grease drying up in the bearings. I question how much longer OEM replacement will be available given the rate of OEM parts being discontinued. Rather not be caught with my pants down, and rather not spend the money and find out they're junk when I do end up needing them. 34,000 on the front strut mounts now, and about 5000 miles added each year.
It is always a thought.
I can't see the grease in the bearings going bad as long as they are kept in proper storage conditions.
Plus, you could always re-grease them.

For me, I could see buying the mounts and bearings for the Intrepid, which I do plan to keep forever, but I can't see myself keeping the Special long enough to need to do the mounts again, as I have to expect they've got at least another 100k in them and at least another 10 years.
Right. My thinking is along the lines of my Special, which will burn to the ground before I take my name off the title. Hence the basement full of spare parts that I still need to go through and shrink...
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 #380703  by In-trepid
 
adu1982 wrote: September 11th, 2019, 3:42 pm One of the main reasons I love the LHS over the special.in long drives it just floats unlike my special that feels ruff , more like a sports , stiff suspension.
I had a Concorde for a company car in 2002. I had to get rid of it and get an Intrepid. It felt like a boat on the highway. I need a bit more road feel than that.
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 #380704  by adu1982
 
In-trepid wrote:
adu1982 wrote: September 11th, 2019, 3:42 pm One of the main reasons I love the LHS over the special.in long drives it just floats unlike my special that feels ruff , more like a sports , stiff suspension.
I had a Concorde for a company car in 2002. I had to get rid of it and get an Intrepid. It felt like a boat on the highway. I need a bit more road feel than that.
That's why I love it compared to my special.....(now the base kinda feels like a boat not by design though, but I think that the PA roads killed it more then my fl cars, it has way way less miles but it rides worse than both).... We're pretty pothole free here....Image

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 #384434  by LUNAT1C
 
Thought I’d snap this thread back up, given tonight’s discoveries in the blue cars wheel wells.

How did the Proforged brand control arms treat you? The Dorman strut rods? I realize the car this thread was born from has moved on.

Thoughts on brands for outer tie rods? Ball joints (comes with the control arm?)? Sway bar end links?

I have greasable problem solver Moog endlinks now, 9 years old. Boots are torn, but the car has no noises now. I’ve in recent years Moog quality flushed the wrong way down the porcelain throne.

I’m of the opinion that I would rather spend the money now for quality parts and not have to do it again for another 18 years, than to have problems because I went for lower priced (and quality) parts. If factory-quality Mopar parts were still available, I’d pay for it. The car will be around for decades if I can help it, so quality comes first. If that’s even possible any longer.
 #384437  by Countachqv
 
I am still happy with KYB struts assembly. As far as the rest of parts was using moog too but noticed they can be hit and miss and may wear prematurely compared to oem. Recently did a MEVOTECH front link job to fix a clunker. Prior links bars did not last 3 years. MOOG as tie rods seem ok and have been there a while.
My main issue is I have not found front links that last and I hate the new grease ball think they put on it. i'll never grease them and i don't want to.
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 #384439  by LUNAT1C
 
Non-greasable is important to me. I think I greased my Moogs maybe three times in the last 9 years. Somehow they’re not making noise that I’m aware of, but the boots are ripped, so they won’t last much longer.
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 #384470  by Sneke_Eyez
 
LUNAT1C wrote: June 5th, 2020, 8:18 pm Thought I’d snap this thread back up, given tonight’s discoveries in the blue cars wheel wells.

How did the Proforged brand control arms treat you? The Dorman strut rods? I realize the car this thread was born from has moved on.

Thoughts on brands for outer tie rods? Ball joints (comes with the control arm?)? Sway bar end links?

I have greasable problem solver Moog endlinks now, 9 years old. Boots are torn, but the car has no noises now. I’ve in recent years Moog quality flushed the wrong way down the porcelain throne.

I’m of the opinion that I would rather spend the money now for quality parts and not have to do it again for another 18 years, than to have problems because I went for lower priced (and quality) parts. If factory-quality Mopar parts were still available, I’d pay for it. The car will be around for decades if I can help it, so quality comes first. If that’s even possible any longer.
All of the suspension parts described in this thread are on the new car with the exception of the rear struts, front and rear endlinks, and rear lateral links and inner and outer tie rods.

I have been happy with the Proforged items so far.
About 15k miles on them if I had to guess.
One of my swaybar endlinks is clunking a bit, but I think that's just because it needs to be tightened (and it was new earlier this year).

I would buy the Proforged stuff again, but I wouldn't be married to the brand. I'd buy Moog or another company if I thought they were a good price and they were a good price.
I would also buy the Dorman strut rods. Not much selection there if I remember right.
I always go Moog for front endlinks because they're the only ones I can keep quiet for a long time. Yes I grease them, usually once a season. 9 years is a good long time to get out of them - don't expect there to be another brand out there you can get that many years out of. The set on my Intrepid is roughly 5 years old and they are still clunk free, but it is driven more like your car than my Special is (show car v. DD).
Outer tie rods I always go Moog and their updated adjuster sleeves. I have had good luck with them on the old Special and the Pro Am.
Inner tie rods I go two piece Moog because I don't want to have to press fit them in. They wear out faster than the OEM style press fit, but I can swap them in a couple of hours versus having to take the full tie rod out and bring it somewhere to have them pressed in.
The Mopar V-line struts (in front now of the new car) are ok and ride decently. I'd buy them again at a good price. I'd go KYB if I was picking at full price. (I have KYBs on the Intrepid.)

The reality is that many of these replacement parts simply will not last as long as the OEM stuff and OEM stuff is either unavailable or super overpriced.

But I will tell you that doing this job made the old Special (and now the new one) less clunky and ride much better, with no steering play.

My Special (new and old) is a good testing ground for these parts because I run the heavy 20s in the summer when I am driving the car hard. Anything that can be abused will be abused by the rims and these MA roads.
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 #392126  by cin993
 
I'm next. Doing the complete suspension now with perfect fall weather.

Ordered the polyurethane cradle bushings from Polybushings for $165, the poly spring isolators, KYB struts, Delphi control arms, strut rods (buy these new bc they're a bitc$ to get off), new stabilizer links and sway bar poly bushings.
Done not too long ago were inner and outer tie rods so we should be good for a while.

And last a tranny fluid/filter change. and last new tires and alignment
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 #392127  by FIREM
 
Strongly recommended Poly Bushing Lube.
Got a tub with the ElCamino and it works great!
https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.11104
 #395482  by JohnnyP
 
Hi guys, my M is making a "muffled thunder" noise up front when I go slow over road imperfections.
Also has some shimmy in the steering wheel when slowing down (already tried new pads and rotors)
When on the throttle I hear what sounds like a vacuum leak or like the lid is off the air cleaner
And a noise like a cat meowing when I step on the brakes.

I put a video of it all on youtube:


I paid the dealer to diagnose it and they recommend a new steering rack, saying there is internal gear noise, worn inner tie rod bushings, sway bar links, and struts, and to replace the brake booster to make the meow noise go away.
Exorbitant estimate of $7500, but that also included $650 to change spark plugs, and $220 to flush and fill the brake lines.

I ordered a rack, strut assemblies, and a 12 piece suspension kit from rockauto.
 #395485  by rustybronco
 
If you are doing the booster more likely than not the master cylinder will rust to the booster unless you live in one of those rust free states. I've got two M's that needed both booster and master cylinder. Bought new booster for the '03 special and a used for the '02 base M. Used booster is starting to squeak and loose vacuum after turning the engine off. Won't do that again.

Can't hear the cat noise you are referring to. Booster should take care of it. The vacuum leak sounds like the booster. The intake plenum will amplify the sound or at least it did on my '99 M. Hard to tell what I can't hear.

Does the low speed shimmy happen only upon brake application? If not check for a bent rim or broken tire belt.

Don't go throwing parts at it!
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 #395487  by FIREM
 
Sounds like the dealer loaded the parts canon to throw everything at your M.
By the looks and sounds on your video, the brake booster is the cat sound. Clunk is most likely stabilizer bushings and links. Inner tie rod bushings are a known almost a maintenance item that cause shimmy. All of these jobs are DIY with guidance from the KB. Spark plugs are almost as easy as a lawn mower $650 is robbery.
Based on your video, odometer appear to be less than six digits. Chances of the rack needing replacement pretty slim.
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 #395495  by FIREM
 
"Klunk" diagnosis: Remove one side stabilizer link completely and road test. (no spirited drive)
If noise is gone links and bar bushings likely the cause :
viewtopic.php?t=33256
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 #395498  by LUNAT1C
 
Spark plugs cost about $50 and an hour of your time.

Dealers will charge book time even if they do it in half the time, and their hourly rates are upwards of $200/hr, and they charge massive markup on parts. Anyone who is familiar with what sockets and wrenches do can do the jobs you need. As Bob said, remove a stabilizer link and road test to check for changes in the clunk. Steering shimmy is typically inner tie rod bushings, and meowing brakes is typically a failing booster. Spark plugs are right on top of the engine, easiest plugs I've ever had to deal with.
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 #395519  by Sneke_Eyez
 
I am with others - the dealer is trying to make a buck off of you. Not all dealers do that, but some do, especially with older cars like ours. Sounds like you have purchased some parts, a trip to the Club Knowledgebase should be your next stop!