Chrysler 300M Enthusiasts Club
  • Engine Cleaning

  • Yes some people clean their engine, some don't. You know who you are. :)
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Yes some people clean their engine, some don't. You know who you are. :)

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 #117949  by 02Specail
 
Just got a rookie question ha, for my 300M Special is it safe for me to hose/spray the engine with water? I'm afraid water will leak somewhere and maybe mess the engine up. I wanna clean it since its really dirty and when i bought the car the engine looked brand new.

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 #117973  by TLCMET
 
If you are going to spray it, somethings should probably covered. What I do is just take a terry towel that I used to dry the car after washing it, and just wipe down all the parts that I can see under the hood. When the towel gets too dirty, I just spray the terry towel with the hose to clean it and ring it out.

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 #117977  by swalker
 
I wash mine with soap and water and brush. Rinse thoroughly and blow dry with leaf blower. Looks show room fresh no water spots and never had a problem.. Also its a good idea to drive it for a little while to make sure everything is dry.

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 #117979  by grayslater
 
A low pressure spray will work without problems. I've done it several times with no problems.

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 #118010  by Bill Putney
 
The main thing I'd be concerned about is the alternator (open construction). Any comments on that aspect?

 #118035  by Antigini
 
I wash by hand.

FAIR WARNING, if you use an industrial strength degreaser and do it by hand, use gloves. I figured this out the hard way, then peeled off all the skin on my hands within three days.

Like Bill said, i'm a bit worried about the alternator but if others have used a low pressure spray then i'm sure you'd be okay. Just my personal choice to not use one.
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 #123818  by Arved
 
02Specail wrote:Just got a rookie question ha, for my 300M Special is it safe for me to hose/spray the engine with water? I'm afraid water will leak somewhere and maybe mess the engine up. I wanna clean it since its really dirty and when i bought the car the engine looked brand new.
Carefull with the cleaners you use. Some can leave the aluminum with white corrosion "dust." Be carefull to get all the water out of the bolt recesses in the plenum. They are excellent "buckets" to hold water, and will corrode the bolts in there. I had to undo my bolts one at a time, work at them with some Naval Jelly and a wire brush, then spray paint them flat black. Someday I may go back and install SS Allen head bolts.

Another detailing trick I'll share - spray down the engine with a nice foaming tire dressing. Best to do with a nice warm engine. When you come back from your drive to dry out the engine compartment, lift the hood, hose everything down with the tire cleaner/dressing, and close the hood. Next day, open the hood, and marvel at how wonderful your engine bay came out!

I haven't had any problem with the alternator, but I don't clean my engine on a weekly basis, either. 2-3 times a year at most. If it does need replacing, I'll go to Autozone for a replacement, and have a lifetime warrenty on the replacement.

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 #123835  by swalker
 
I wash mine with car wash soap after i was the car. Then i use my wet vac on blow to dry everything off. Looks show room fresh every time.

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 #123859  by Bill Putney
 
Another problem area to be aware of is where the master cylinder plugs into the booster - there is no gasket there, and water gets into the master cylinder push-rod area and the push rod corrodes really badly. You can't see this area without taking the master cylinder off - but I would avoid letting water spray hit the booster area. When I replaced my booster (and saw the huge amount of corrosion on the old booster's push rod), I sealed the top side of the master cylinder-to-booster flange with silicone sealer. Actually you can do that at any time withut taking it apart - just rub a layer of sealer on the top of the outside of the flange joint with your finger. Howevere, the concern now is that water is already trapped in there from previous washings.

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 #149277  by Arved
 
Bill Putney wrote:Another problem area to be aware of is where the master cylinder plugs into the booster...
I suggest avoiding that area under the strut brace. The shift cable also runs in that area, and if you spray degreasers in that area, you'll wash the cable lube off resulting in a stiff shifter, and accelerated shift cable wear.

If you use Gunk Engine Cleaner, or any of a number of similar engine cleaners, I also suggest avoiding the catalytic converters, located below the exhaust manifold on either side of the engine. Gunk includes Naptha and Petroleum Oil. The catalytic converter includes an insulation material under the heat shield. If the cleaner is absorbed by the insulation material, it will create a lot of smoke once the catalytic converter gets hot.

 #151928  by tinman
 
Any problem cleaning the radiator area? I just discovered a tranny leak that I hope is a simple clamp fix. The radiator area is full of ATF gunk and I want to get a good look at it to find the leak. I have been driving 3000 miles with this problem and I am not happy.

 #151986  by tinman
 
Thanks for that. I guess I will give it a go this weekend. That whole spiel seemed like one giant advertisement for this guy's products, but discounting that he had good advice.