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LH Performance Modification Discussions
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 #359319  by Morphun
 June 24th, 2016, 1:06 pm
Yes! I have been hanging around this site for awhile and I finally have something to post. I do not own a 300m but rather a 2000 Chrysler Concorde, keep in mind I built this kit on a very tight budget. It has NO tuning whatsoever mainly due to to the fact that I can't seem to find any information on how to even start. Again this is a rear mount because I liked the idea and it's different so hear I go:).

2000 Chrysler Concorde with a .63 A/R turbo in the back were the 3 foot resonator use to sit (why was it so big) it's oil only, lines are T- OFF from the oil pressure sending unit and ran to the rear of the car by a steel braided -4 an line. The turbo has a restricter, I haven't had any issues with it since installation at all. From there, a non braided 10 an line about a foot long runs to a scavenging pump mounted on the spare tire hump under the
car. I must add that the pump is mounted about 1 inch lower than the turbo housing, this is because I had oil seeping into the exhaust after shutdown. By mounting it lower I could pull more oil out of the turbo (after turning the car off) allowing me to use the 1 foot of hose like a tiny stump to which the dribbling oil could collect into. Now from the pump back to the front is 15 feet of braided 10 an line, this line has a one way check valve because of the uphill climb back to the passenger valve cover.

That's the bad of it really I know I'm missing alot of information and parts to make this actually work but there is a power difference. It has been 15,000 miles and 3 oil changes. So I just figured I wanted it to be known that it is possible.
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 #359324  by Sneke_Eyez
 June 24th, 2016, 1:59 pm
Wow, that's pretty crazy. 3.2 Powered Concorde or 2.7?

I admire your innovation!
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 #359326  by Morphun
 June 24th, 2016, 2:18 pm
It's the 3.2l, I've always loved the engine but It just wasn't cutting it for me. now I challenge everything I can find in my land yacht I have alot of fun in the process, In the future I hope to add more interesting mods that are unique to my Concorde but as of resent, I have put alot of projects on hold because I want to figure out a way to stop running lean. I can feel the sudden power lose on hot days and it won't hook up in first at night? So I know afr is way off under boost.
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 #359327  by Sonicrob
 June 24th, 2016, 2:19 pm
I must see more of this!
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 #359328  by paintballdude05
 June 24th, 2016, 4:24 pm
Sweet! Yes share some more info on it!
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 #359332  by M-Pressive
 June 24th, 2016, 8:18 pm
Awesome!

I would love to do this to mine.
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 #359345  by FIREM
 June 25th, 2016, 7:38 am
Interesting set up. How much boost does it produce ? Lag time? Is it intercooled ?
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 #359353  by Shawn1301
 June 25th, 2016, 8:32 am
Would 3.5l injectors fit? May help with lean issues.
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 #359354  by FIREM
 June 25th, 2016, 9:53 am
MAP sensor is the key. TPS & MAP (and other sensors) end signals to the PCM to set fueling.
(If I am not mistaken injectors are the same)
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 #359356  by Morphun
 June 25th, 2016, 1:19 pm
I'll try to get some pictures later on today. It is intercooled it's 2 inch piping from the rear to the intercooler then 2.5 from there to the intake. As for lag, no real power gains until at operating temperature. In which case I have 4lb at 2900 rpm and 7lb at 3500. If yours driving normally and put your foot down though, you have a gentle warning of about 2 seconds of sudden power spike that snugs you down (comfy) as I have said though that's day time driving. Nighttime it's a different animal. And putting your foot down feels like a v8 seriously. I'll definitely be posting both runs in video.
 #359357  by snstr_auto
 June 25th, 2016, 1:38 pm
Hey, I'm Tim. Some of the members may know me from Facebook. I have a little bit of insight in regards to your lean condition.

Any Naturally Aspirated (NA) engine air pressure never exceeds 7psi (volumetric efficiency) so factory fuel systems are set up in regards to this as the air coming into the engine is never going to exceed 7 pounds per square inch.

What I discovered was when attempting to exceed 7psi of boost, the fuel system simply can not supply adequate fueling necessitating the need to make some changes to the fuel system. What I did was added an aeromotive boost referencing fuel regulator (still working out the kinks, surging around 5 psi right now) and changed out to a 255lph pump, which in itself was a bit of fun. Everything is contained to the fuel tank area keeping the return line short and still accessible from underneath BUT more than up to the task now.

We also had to get a tad bit creative for the map sensor and are still trying to figure out a better set up.

In short, just swapping injectors of a sensor is not going to help (tho research points that 3.5 injectors WILL support up to 15psi before getting taxed out) as the factory regulator is not going to supply any more than factory pressure (58psi +/-5)

I hope this helps!!
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 #359369  by hrmwrm
 June 26th, 2016, 2:17 pm
is our map sensor capable of signaling boost? or is it more tuned to atmospheric and vacuum?
maybe one from a boosted engine would work better? like a cummins?
just throwin some stuff out there.

or, is it more of a problem with our pcm not knowing what to do with a boosted map signal?
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 #359407  by Morphun
 June 27th, 2016, 6:14 pm
I already run a fuel rail and injectors from a 300m special, the injectors must be different because I wouldn't be running ATM with the 3.2 injectors(I tried) after 15-18 miles my plugs look like someone painted them white. As for our PCM I'm thinking there is no map programmed into the ecu for boost due to the day and night power fluctuating but I could be very wrong. I have no way to access or see anything my engine does!
Besides that I keep reading about a dbr3 for access to anything tuning wise. One interesting thing on the map sensor though. At wot power is good under boost but if coasting along the highway and give it some gas, just enough to see 2 pounds I get a check engine light for that map reading too high. Problem is for the next. 3-5 minutes it bogus down, even if I punch it nothing happens! Maybe a 2 bar sensor would fix this?

Anyway under the hood is normal nothing to shock the public, one thing I will also mention is there is NO bov under this hood. Turbo flutter is a child hood love. I know people say its bad but I can't find any evidence so it's staying. The only mods are ported and polished lower intake and a head gaskets and bolts from eBay LOL. I tried to take a picture of the intercooler but it's too tucked away to see.
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 #359451  by snstr_auto
 June 28th, 2016, 12:56 pm
Turbo flutter is boost pressure being sent back thru the intake portion of the turbo.

In excessive cases it can result in premature bearing wear inside the turbo and cause a bit of a lag when going back under throttle. (Air changing directions)

With the 2000 the MAP sensor is a 4 pin (has temp sensor included in it). So it may be a bit more difficult to find a MAP sensor that will plug and play. 02 and up changed to a 3 pin with a temp sensor in the throttle body boot which may be a possibility.

I have to ask if you have done anything in regards to getting additional fuel into the system? I need to upload a bunch of pictures to Flickr and maybe post some of my setup here as well as a brief explanation as to how we over came a few issues
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 #359453  by LUNAT1C
 June 28th, 2016, 2:04 pm
Interesting. I've heard of rear-mounted turbos but have not seen one in practice yet. Is there a performance advantage? I see issues with the air filter being so exposed at the rear of the car. Certainly gets cooler air not being soaked with heat from the engine, but dust and debris from regular driving, as well as the possibility of snagging it on something would be a concern to me. I imagine a rear-mount has the benefit of a simpler installation since you aren't having to relocate so many bits and pieces under the hood.

Was the reason for the smaller 2" pipe to the intercooler to maintain pressure that the turbocharger is generating? I wonder how much pressure is being lost along the length of the car and possibly being heated up by the exhaust system, if they're run parallel.