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LH Performance Modification Discussions
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 #365191  by TrueBlue
 February 23rd, 2017, 3:09 pm
Seals deteriorate without operation cycling, rubber without fluid running through it dry-rots, suspension bits that are designed to move gain surface rust, etc. I guess it's hard to full explain and it's probably worse in certain climes than others.
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 #365205  by Shawn1301
 February 23rd, 2017, 9:22 pm
I can agree with age and sitting and suspension. My special with 380k km has only had the inner tie rod bushings replaced. Struts, ball joints, sway links, tie rods are still original.
Where as my '00 with 275k km needed new front struts, went through both ball joints, tie rod ends, a sway bar link, and all four bearings.. the 2000 car sat for about 3yrs before I got it.
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 #365232  by grayslater
 February 24th, 2017, 6:52 pm
LUNAT1C wrote:1st, yes timing belt and water pump are affected by age just as much as mileage. Any LH car on its original belt is overdue regardless of mileage. I had mine done at 82,000 miles and 8 years (limit is 7 years). I'm doing it again this spring 7 years later with only 45,000 miles added just to be safe.

2nd, I'm not surprised at all the van feels oomfier than the M. My 3.6L 2014 Journey felt more spritely than my Special does, simply because the engine is better for that. My Wrangler would probably be the same way if it wasn't nearly 2000 lbs heavier than the M (5500 compared to 3600).

After the timing belt, I would suggest installing NGK spark plugs, replacing the accessory belts, and changing all fluids if they haven't been done recently already. Coolant is 5 years, Brake fluid is 2-3 years, Trans fluid is 30,000 miles, oil is annual or 6,000 miles. I do annual oil changes since I don't drive mine much anymore.

Inspect the tires, they have a road life of about 6 years. Check the brake pads and rotors for unusual wear and replace if needed. Check suspension and tie rods for any possible excess wear.

If I bought a used LH car today with no documented history, all of those items would happen within a week of taking it home, even if it had 10,000 miles on it and was pristine inside and out.
To add to Robert's comments, I'd also change the power steering fluid every 30K miles. Not to mention on the tranny fluid, just doing a pan drop and refill vs a flush.
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 #365278  by mnitetrain
 February 26th, 2017, 11:08 pm
grayslater wrote:
LUNAT1C wrote:1st, yes timing belt and water pump are affected by age just as much as mileage. Any LH car on its original belt is overdue regardless of mileage. I had mine done at 82,000 miles and 8 years (limit is 7 years). I'm doing it again this spring 7 years later with only 45,000 miles added just to be safe.

2nd, I'm not surprised at all the van feels oomfier than the M. My 3.6L 2014 Journey felt more spritely than my Special does, simply because the engine is better for that. My Wrangler would probably be the same way if it wasn't nearly 2000 lbs heavier than the M (5500 compared to 3600).

After the timing belt, I would suggest installing NGK spark plugs, replacing the accessory belts, and changing all fluids if they haven't been done recently already. Coolant is 5 years, Brake fluid is 2-3 years, Trans fluid is 30,000 miles, oil is annual or 6,000 miles. I do annual oil changes since I don't drive mine much anymore.

Inspect the tires, they have a road life of about 6 years. Check the brake pads and rotors for unusual wear and replace if needed. Check suspension and tie rods for any possible excess wear.

If I bought a used LH car today with no documented history, all of those items would happen within a week of taking it home, even if it had 10,000 miles on it and was pristine inside and out.
To add to Robert's comments, I'd also change the power steering fluid every 30K miles. Not to mention on the tranny fluid, just doing a pan drop and refill vs a flush.
Also adding to Cory's pan drop I would also replace trans filter! while the pan is down.

I also have 2012 Ram C/V with the 3.6 and 6 speed auto. Do wish the M had this combo although I have had the left cylinder head replaced under Chrysler extended warranty at 58,000 miles and the TIPM was also replaced same time with Mopar extended warranty.
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 #365499  by Basslicks
 March 5th, 2017, 4:27 pm
Planning on doing the plugs on mine soon. I have 149k miles on mine. Should I replace the coils as well (oh God, I hope not) or just the plugs?
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 #365722  by ja300mes
 March 12th, 2017, 6:36 pm
You really only need to replace the coil(s) if one of them malfunctions. All of mine are original. They are so easy to replace if one does go bad.
 #365735  by skinnyg
 March 13th, 2017, 12:54 am
No need for coils unless you get a CEL light or it is misfiring. I would use NGK plugs, Chrysler had a TSB for a reason and superseded the Champion plugs to NGK plugs, what that reason is I am not sure lol

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
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 #365739  by Basslicks
 March 13th, 2017, 6:11 am
Thanks guys. I wasn't worried about the difficulty of replacing the coils... I was just not looking forward to the expense haha. Ole girl's starting to feel a little tired (Just on those "hot" temp starts, ya know) and I figure plugs and a new air filter would probably do her some good. I'd like to do a K&N, but I don't have that kind of dough right now.

Good to know the OEM is NGK. That's all I use in my Jeep and I LOVE 'em. Of course the ones in my Jeep are copper core, but that's also OEM recommended for Jeep.

Happy to report, no codes for my old '00 M. Every now and then the wife will get gas and not tighten the cap enough and it will pop the CEL, but it goes away after I hulk the cap on.
 #366233  by Trevorusn
 April 2nd, 2017, 10:40 am
OP, I have a very similar "garage". My wife's '12 T&C feels significantly stronger off the line hands down. The 300M really shines acceleration wise past 2500 RPMs. My 04 has just crested 60k miles, got her with 45k less than a year ago. It kinda surprised me how sluggish 253HP could feel, yet its a whole 'nother ballgame at higher speeds. I am also in the process of updating all common wear items thanks to age, sooo much fun lol but worth it considering what the car offers, minus that tiny 17 gallon gas tank.
 #366234  by Trevorusn
 April 2nd, 2017, 10:49 am
OP, just curious if you could describe the rough idle...lol sounds eerily familiar. Same with the brake feel, just replaced my booster and it stops aggressively but after a bit of softish pedal travel. Running Uniroyal Tiger Paw GTZs, curious if that contributes.
 #368066  by khobar
 June 30th, 2017, 9:25 pm
Ugh - sorry for my absence. I bit the bullet and had the work done. $1200 for the timing belt/water pump/idler/etc. Old timing belt came out pristine with zero wear, zero defect so that stung a bit, but as my wife reminds me had I opted to not get the work done I'd likely be sitting on a pile of junk now. Having watched various Youtube videos I decided I wasn't really up to the job, not with our summer approaching. My shop got the job done in a few hours.

Car doesn't seem much different than before except I now am not nervous about driving it. ;)
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 #369047  by Basslicks
 August 18th, 2017, 10:48 pm
khobar wrote:Ugh - sorry for my absence. I bit the bullet and had the work done. $1200 for the timing belt/water pump/idler/etc. Old timing belt came out pristine with zero wear, zero defect so that stung a bit, but as my wife reminds me had I opted to not get the work done I'd likely be sitting on a pile of junk now. Having watched various Youtube videos I decided I wasn't really up to the job, not with our summer approaching. My shop got the job done in a few hours.

Car doesn't seem much different than before except I now am not nervous about driving it. ;)
Wow. Hearing the price tag of 1200 bucks makes me really glad I did the work myself. We only paid 900 for the car to begin with!