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Do we need to change that Long Life Coolant anyway?

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 #394663  by mrnrod
 
Dang guys second Radiator I have to change in 4 years which I guess is not much of an issue when you think about it.

Anyways I ordered one of the OE style ones with the Plastic Tank which no doubt will Crack again someday.

Has anyone tried those all metal ones? They are about as expensive as the Plastic one from AutoZone. The one I bought is the same as AutoZone just much cheaper since it forgoes the lifetime warranty.

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 #394664  by LUNAT1C
 
I'm not sure anyone has used one. I haven't seen one for sale that fits our cars, but it's something I might try if and when mine goes. I'm on my third radiator... factory unit puked in late 2010, and the replacement was ruined in the wreck a few months later. The one I have now has been fine, came from a specialty radiator shop in NJ that the body shop has worked with for decades. I may call that shop if and when the time comes if it seems like the aluminum ones aren't up to snuff.
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 #394667  by FIREM
 
I use Car Quest from Advance Auto Parts ONLY because of the Limited Lifetime Warranty.
I would only use a radiator with this warranty period. NOT because it would last a lifetime, simply because it costs only my labor and time to replace it.
The "engineered flaw" (IMHO) is the plastic tank to aluminum core crimp and gasket set up. It will only last xxx number of cycles then fail.
I have purchased ONE radiator for FIREM, replaced it 2 additional times at no part cost to me.
Advance usually have them in stock and they have stores up and down the east coast should the need arise.
 #394697  by mrnrod
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I had got my radiator and thermostat changed before Christmas Eve. When I tested with an idle and a short drive seemed like thermostat was opening up since I was able to get hot air and engine stayed at operating temp didn't get any hotter.

When driving to my parents which is about an hour away from where I live my car started over heating with the AC on. After reading some of the posts in here. I turned on the Heat on full on my way home and there was no climb.

My question is does anyone think it'll be a blocked bypass loop since the car seemed to work fine when the heater is on? Or could it be the thermostat I installed is bad and not opening?

When checking hoses like FIREM mentioned in one post the top hose was HOT the lower hose Cold so was thermostat closed?. What are y'all's recommendations?

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 #394699  by LUNAT1C
 
Make sure thermostat is installed in the correct orientation, it can easily be installed backwards. Also worthwhile to test any new thermostat in a pot of boiling water to confirm it opens and closes.
 #394700  by mrnrod
 
LUNAT1C wrote:Make sure thermostat is installed in the correct orientation, it can easily be installed backwards. Also worthwhile to test any new thermostat in a pot of boiling water to confirm it opens and closes.
Yeah I just tested both in boiling Water seems like they both open. The new one opens a little sooner. The correct way to install it is the spring side facing the Block right? That's what this manual shows.

I also read that it could be my radiator fan? I think my fan is working correctly. They are off until the car gets around operating temp then I see them turn on. How would I verify Lo/Hi operation?

I am going to do Blue devil radiator flush tomorrow to clean out the system just in case there's a clog.ImageImage

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 #394701  by LUNAT1C
 
That should be correct. Could also be air in the system. Fill with the bleeder valve open and nose up on stands so the bleeder is higher than the heater core, close bleeder once a steady stream is present. Squeeze upper hose to move air out into the overflow bottle.
 #394713  by mrnrod
 
LUNAT1C wrote:That should be correct. Could also be air in the system. Fill with the bleeder valve open and nose up on stands so the bleeder is higher than the heater core, close bleeder once a steady stream is present. Squeeze upper hose to move air out into the overflow bottle.
Okay, so I got my system flushed yesterday. I installed a known good thermostat in. I have a parking garage so I parked at my steepest incline to bleed the system of air.

I first filled it with the car off about to the point where fluid started to come from the bleeder and the tank was full. Then I started the car with Heater on High no Frost Icon. and was watching and massaging for about 30mins-1hr til I didn't see air bubbles anymore.

I drove the car with the heater on, it stayed within operating temps the whole time. I wanted to test with AC and the car temp started to climb. Fans are working because when I was sitting idle after overheating I turned the heat back on and the temp dropped back to 1/2 to slightly under. I quickly changed back to a low temp with the Frost Icon ON. Fans came in higher.

Could my Cap be causing air to come in the system at higher temps? With the cap on when I turn it to AC I opened the bleeder and seems like there was air. In the system when I'm like 90% sure I got it all out I mean I filled about 2.5 gallons at this point.

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 #394714  by FIREM
 
Knowledgebase has many threads on cooling system issues. Proper fill, diagnostics for overheating, normal operation etc. Read them all and take recommended action. Great resource that will resolve your concerns.
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 #394722  by In-trepid
 
Of the eight 300m Specials that I have owned, only one of them had a similar issue to what you have described. The others all acted normal and using the bleed procedure never exhibited overheating. The one in question, I spent two weeks and tried everything suggested and a few tests of my own. nothing worked. Watching the temp while being monitored on the OBD2 connection, it would climb to about 195 even though the flow in the fill bottle suggested the thermostat had opened. It would stabilize for a few seconds and start to climb to about 235 to 240 F, then drop to about 203. It would then climb again to about 250, then drop back to about 220, then climb to about 260 where I would shut it down. If I only let it idle, it would stabilize at about 213, which is higher than it should be, but driving it would cause the ever-increasing cycle described. I rodded out the bypass with a piece of wire, but nothing. I directed a water jet up the internal bypass, also no change. I'm pretty sure that the correct head gasket was in place as it didn't appear to ever have been changed. I finally concluded that the internal bypass was the problem - either a blockage in the head or the hole in the head gasket was blocked. The coolant appeared to be correct and fairly new when I started and rust in the cooling system wasn't noticeable. I finally removed the thermostat from the housing and put an inline thermostat in the top hose. Problem solved. I would only do this as a last resort. A couple of hints if it comes to this. Make sure there is a hole in the inline thermostat and that it points upward when installed. Also, install as close to the intake manifold as possible. The further toward the radiator, the higher the temps climb before the thermostat opens, usually at about 230 -240 initially if a 180 thermostat is used. Once the thermostat opens it stabilizes between 190 and 203 and tends to cycle in that range continuously with no issues.
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 #394747  by mrnrod
 
I'm starting to think it's either the bypass as you've said or maybe my water pump got shot when the radiator went since it likely lost coolant when I noticed. It's only about a year old not many miles since I've started riding my bike to work.

When I drive my car with the heater in it'll stay on the line right below the middle. I bled all the air and there are definitely no leaks. I drove it to work the past 2 days with heat in just fine.

On the way home I wanted to test without the heat and pretty much right away I see it climb from the line before the middle to the middle. That is enough of a climb for me to be weary that anything is fixed

Once I got to my apartment I turned the heat off noticed the gauge either stay in-between the middle and the line before and it would climb which would make me think Water Pump since it's getting hotter while idle and hitting the gas.

Would you recommend me doing the thermostat relocation before water pump with my issues described? Since the water pump is a (CENSORED) to change and rather new I'm reluctant to change it and waste money.

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 #394748  by FIREM
 
The fact that it cools with the heater on high suggests that coolant is circulating yet not giving up heat.
Read thru this then do the thermostat relocation : viewtopic.php?t=25819
Tiniest of hole at the top for air to bleed is all that is needed.
My car runs slightly cooler on the highway and goes to just below half when in stop and go traffic.
Also gets better fuel mileage as a bonus.
 #394917  by mrnrod
 
FIREM wrote:The fact that it cools with the heater on high suggests that coolant is circulating yet not giving up heat.
Read thru this then do the thermostat relocation : viewtopic.php?t=25819
Tiniest of hole at the top for air to bleed is all that is needed.
My car runs slightly cooler on the highway and goes to just below half when in stop and go traffic.
Also gets better fuel mileage as a bonus.
Thanks, I finally had the time to get it done last weekend. Testing the car this week driving with no heat on the car runs cooler than usual as it's been pretty cold in Texas but still within operating temp and does not go past the middle. So safe to say the issue is resolved.

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