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General Discussions about the 300M

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 #219884  by Maximus
 March 15th, 2010, 5:33 pm
At that millage dont try to make any redical changes. Whats in it now?

Run 10 -30 in it all year maybe at that milage??
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 #219900  by Brando26
 March 15th, 2010, 6:57 pm
Mobil 1 10W-30 high mileage :) Purolator PureOne oil filter. enjoy.
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 #219917  by grayslater
 March 15th, 2010, 8:30 pm
joshs300m wrote:i am using mobil 1 10w40
How long have you been using this? Seems a little thick?? What are you winters like in RI?
Otherwise, as per the manual.
5w-30 for anything below 0°F -100°F
10w-30 from 0°F - 100°F +

Had 178K on my 2000 when I sold it and have 150K now on the 2004. I normally use 5w-30 all year round here in Illinois.
 #219947  by tinman
 March 16th, 2010, 11:59 am
I use 10w-40 in the summer and either 10w-30 or 5w-30 in the cooler winter here in Florida. This along with either a Mobil1 oil filter or K&N oil filter.
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 #219970  by LUNAT1C
 March 16th, 2010, 5:04 pm
I'm a Valvoline guy, with PureOne filter. I use SYNPower since my mileage is still comparatively low, however for you I would suggest sticking with whatever you have been using. Dino, blend, Synthetic. At your mileage, changing it is unwise.
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 #219984  by grayslater
 March 16th, 2010, 7:01 pm
rknapp wrote:I'm a Valvoline guy, with PureOne filter. I use SYNPower since my mileage is still comparatively low, however for you I would suggest sticking with whatever you have been using. Dino, blend, Synthetic. At your mileage, changing it is unwise.
If you maintain your vehicle with regular oil changes, the myth of changing between types of oils is just that, a myth.
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 #219991  by Brando26
 March 16th, 2010, 7:31 pm
I concur. I don't think a thinner oil will produce any leaks or protect the engine any less in the case of a 3.5
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 #219993  by Bill Putney
 March 16th, 2010, 7:50 pm
grayslater wrote:
rknapp wrote:I'm a Valvoline guy, with PureOne filter. I use SYNPower since my mileage is still comparatively low, however for you I would suggest sticking with whatever you have been using. Dino, blend, Synthetic. At your mileage, changing it is unwise.
If you maintain your vehicle with regular oil changes, the myth of changing between types of oils is just that, a myth.
It's a myth that it is a myth. (IOW - we disagree) :)
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 #219995  by Brando26
 March 16th, 2010, 8:02 pm
how would running recommended weight and viscocity high mileage oil be any less safe?
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 #219998  by grayslater
 March 16th, 2010, 8:33 pm
Bill Putney wrote:
grayslater wrote:
rknapp wrote:I'm a Valvoline guy, with PureOne filter. I use SYNPower since my mileage is still comparatively low, however for you I would suggest sticking with whatever you have been using. Dino, blend, Synthetic. At your mileage, changing it is unwise.
If you maintain your vehicle with regular oil changes, the myth of changing between types of oils is just that, a myth.
It's a myth that it is a myth. (IOW - we disagree) :)
Per Mobil 1 website:
Myth: I need to flush my engine before switching to Mobil 1.
Reality:
No special preparation is necessary when switching from conventional motor oil to Mobil 1 or Mobil 1 Extended Performance.
Myth: Mobil 1 will leak out of the seals of older cars.
Reality: Mobil 1 does not cause leaks. In fact, new Mobil 1 was tested in dozens of industry standard and original equipment manufacturers (OEMs) tests to prove its seal performance. It is fully compatible with the elastomeric materials from which all automotive seals and gaskets are made. If an older engine is in good condition and does not have oil leaks, Mobil 1 provides the same advantages as when used in a new engine. ExxonMobil recommends taking measures to repair the leaks, then using Mobil 1. ExxonMobil also recommends following the automobile manufacturer's manual for the proper oil to use. Also watch our answer; it's myth four of five in our online video.
Texaco/Shevron
Myth #4 - Once you start using synthetic motor oil you cannot go back to conventional oil.
Synthetic and conventional engine oils can't be mixed, or else they react and cause engine problems.
Fact: As long as the synthetic motor oil product and conventional motor oil product meet the viscosity and performance requirements outlined in the vehicle's owner's manual, you may interchange them with each other
Valvoline.com
Myth: Switching between conventional and other types of motor oil is bad for my engine.
Reality: Conventional, synthetic blend, synthetic, and high mileage motor oils are compatible. Mixing or switching between types of motor oil is not harmful to your engine.
Myth:It's bad for my engine to switch between motor oil brands.
Reality: Not all motor oils are the same, but simply switching brands will not have any harmful effect on your engine.
Myth:Synthetic oils are too thin, creating blow-by and oil burn-off in older cars.
Reality: Just like conventional motor oil, synthetic oils have a specific viscosity grade. However, synthetic motor oil contains extra lubrication additives to make the oil stronger and provide higher heat dissipation. Synthetic oils do not affect seals and will not be the cause of blow-by or oil burn off in an older engine.
Myth: Synthetic oil is bad for engine seals.
Reality: Synthetic oil will not cause any damage to engine seals.
Myth: Older cars must use conventional motor oil.
Reality: Not true. Older cars can use synthetic motor oil. Valvoline does not recommend using synthetic oil if the vehicle already contains a leak.
Myth: Once your engine gets a taste of synthetic motor oil, there's no going back to conventional oil.
Reality: Synthetic and conventional oils are compatible - It is not harmful if you decide to switch.
I wouldn't hesitate a bit switching oil in either of my Ms. Not that I would since I'm running 10-12K OCIs.
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 #220004  by Brando26
 March 16th, 2010, 9:30 pm
good info. I still concur with my original concurance.
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 #220030  by Bill Putney
 March 17th, 2010, 5:30 am
I wouldn't argue with much of those quotes, Cory. I never said it shrinks or swells seals that they seem to imply is what all the myths are about. Notice they *never* once mentioned detergent properties. Hmm - why is that? Is it possible that they are using strawman "myths" as a diversion? None of what they mention to counter the myths is what I warn about. We've had the discussion on that before, and I don't want to have it again (that's just a statement of fact - no emotion involved - we're speaking as friends).

Keep in mind when quoting companies defending use of their products that you can find statements by "reputable" manufacturers insisting that their product is an acceptable substitute for specific products (I'm thinking particularly of tranny fliuds and antifreezes here).

My beliefs on the subject are based on personal experience in the fairly recent past (with Mobil 1). People will choose who they want to believe, and I have no doubts that *many* people have made the switchover at high mileage with no problems. I equate that to deciding that you can run red lights without consequence because someone you know ran two red lights and did not have an accident or get a ticket. Not a perfect analogy, but just using it to support my point.

I will say that *IF* you know that you don't have more than light sludge in the engine, you're probably safe to do the change, but if that and the history of the engine, such as oil and filter change intervals, is an unknown, I would definitely say don't do it. If you have, not even small leaks, but just minor seepages, I would say definitely don't do it.

Not that this is relevant today - just some history - but when Mobil 1 first came out, they had a huge problem with getting their additive package right as far as seal shrink/swell. I jumped on the bandwagon when they first came out and immediately ended up with an engine with some oil leaks - wasn't fatal, but their product earned a big black eye during those days and, after tweaking it and getting it right, it took them years to overcome the bad publicity - I see they're still trying to counteract that "myth" (it wasn't a myth back then but would be today).
 #220032  by Tarheel
 March 17th, 2010, 6:38 am
The 300M Owner's Manual states that 10W-30 is preferred in the temperature range of 0 to 100+ degrees F.

I use Mobile 1 Extended Performance oil, 10W-30, with the Mobile 1 Extended Performance Oil Filter. If you are driving in sub 0 degrees 5W-30 oil would be the correct oil to use.
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 #220046  by grayslater
 March 17th, 2010, 12:22 pm
Bill Putney wrote:I wouldn't argue with much of those quotes, Cory. I never said it shrinks or swells seals that they seem to imply is what all the myths are about. Notice they *never* once mentioned detergent properties. Hmm - why is that? Is it possible that they are using strawman "myths" as a diversion? None of what they mention to counter the myths is what I warn about. We've had the discussion on that before, and I don't want to have it again (that's just a statement of fact - no emotion involved - we're speaking as friends). Sorry, Bill :) but I don't personally remember having this discussion with you before. Shame on me for be forgetful if we did. :) This is certainly a friendly conversation but I did not list all the quotes listed from those manufacturers. IIRC, there were indications of detergents, perhaps too many properties among all the different oil grades, types, and manufacturers though??

I will say that *IF* you know that you don't have more than light sludge in the engine, you're probably safe to do the change, but if that and the history of the engine, such as oil and filter change intervals, is an unknown, I would definitely say don't do it. If you have, not even small leaks, but just minor seepages, I would say definitely don't do it. My original quote insinuated this condition. Though it still could be done with proper precaution and fewer miles per OCI in a separate circumstance.

Not that this is relevant today - just some history - but when Mobil 1 first came out, they had a huge problem with getting their additive package right as far as seal shrink/swell. I jumped on the bandwagon when they first came out and immediately ended up with an engine with some oil leaks - wasn't fatal, but their product earned a big black eye during those days and, after tweaking it and getting it right, it took them years to overcome the bad publicity - I see they're still trying to counteract that "myth" (it wasn't a myth back then but would be today). I think we could probably find many products like this today, especially with all of the outsourcing in today's economy. It's kind of like Adam's post and how he found out that some of the Mopar parts aren't what they used to be either.
I can't say that I'd ever want to match wits with you, Bill. But in the situation of the OP, I didn't think there was any problem in switching his oil. :)
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 #220051  by Bill Putney
 March 17th, 2010, 1:09 pm
grayslater wrote:I can't say that I'd ever want to match wits with you, Bill. But in the situation of the OP, I didn't think there was any problem in switching his oil. :)
You're saying you don't want to engage in a battle of wits with an unarmed man? :)

Yeah - I don't remember who it was in the previous multiple discussions - I know it was someone who hangs out on BITOG, which should narrow it down a bit. It don't matter. I don't consider my opinion any more valid than anyone who has a different one as long as there's some sensible reasoning to support it. Fact is the laws of physics just don't care what any of us thinks. Image