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  • Yes some people clean their engine, some don't. You know who you are. :)
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Yes some people clean their engine, some don't. You know who you are. :)

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 #222770  by bugauto
 
I cleaned my engine today according to what most people of this topic were saying about how to do it. I sprayed orange blaster and brushed the heavy grime areas then squirted it off with a garden hose while engine is running. I did just as most said and really squirted everywhere and didn't worry about what got wet.

About 30 minutes later I take it for a drive to fully dry the engine. While driving I noticed that the Malfunction Indicator Light didn't turn off. Then after it reached normal operating temperature I noticed it starts sputtering and running very rough. As soon as I notice that, then the Malfunction Indicator Light flashes off and on. I immediately pulled over and turned the engine off. I then reach into my glove box to pull out the owners manual and look up what that light means. It tells me that it is a diagnostic system called OBD II that monitors the emissions, engine and transmission control systems. Ok that's cool, but I read on a bit further and it tells me that if the light starts flashing that means severe catalytic converter damage and power loss will soon occur.

After letting it sit for about a hour to cool down I then started it and was able to drive the short distance home but as soon as it reached normal operating temperature it then started sputtering real bad and light flashing on and off again. I pull into the driveway and open the hood. I could hear sizzles from drops of water falling and hitting something hot. One drop falls and then about 30 seconds later another drop is heard. So I am assuming something is still wet and will take a day or so to dry out.

I really hope after everything is fully dry that the malfunction Indicator Light will be ok and the engine will run fine.

Please advise!

BTW, just so everyone knows what the malfunction indicator light on your dash looks like, here are some pictures of it below.

Image

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User avatar
 #222788  by Bill Putney
 
You couldn't locate where the sizzling drops were hitting?

It might resolve itself, but search on "key dance" and post any codes.
User avatar
 #222797  by Brando26
 
I agree, when the light is on, do the key dance and tell us what the codes are. Usually a drop and a sizzle is water falling and hitting the catalytic converters. Maybe hit your oxygen sensors when they were hot causing them to cool rapidly and heat back up?
 #222807  by bugauto
 
Here I am the following morning and it has not cleared itself up yet. The Malfunction Indicator Light is still on after engine starts up.

Key dance codes that showed up on the odometer were as follows

P 1684
P 0304
P 0306

I don't know where to look up these codes. Thanks for your help on this.
User avatar
 #222831  by 300maximilien
 
P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected

P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected

You most likely saturated something under the hood and need to let things dry out and then disconnect battery to reset codes,

FYI:

If you become a paid member all these codes and much much more is waiting for you in the Knowledge Base part of the Forum
 #222840  by bugauto
 
I am a paid member but my account is not linked to my forum handle yet.

Thanks,
Mike
User avatar
 #222858  by Brando26
 
Its possible the seals on the coil packs into the coil tubes arent good and water seeped into the tube. At operating temp the water would turn to steam and potentially interrupt the the signal between the coil and the plug? Or perhaps water saturated the coil's wire harness. I would pull the coil packs on the right side of the engine and look for any water in the tube, as well as simply let everything air out further (under cover of a garage and maybe a fan). I would also research the oxygen sensor on the right side of the engine since both misfires are on the right side.
 #223244  by bugauto
 
brando26 wrote:Its possible the seals on the coil packs into the coil tubes arent good and water seeped into the tube. At operating temp the water would turn to steam and potentially interrupt the the signal between the coil and the plug? Or perhaps water saturated the coil's wire harness. I would pull the coil packs on the right side of the engine and look for any water in the tube, as well as simply let everything air out further (under cover of a garage and maybe a fan). I would also research the oxygen sensor on the right side of the engine since both misfires are on the right side.
Yes that is exactly the issue.

I took the coil packs off today and used my air compressor to blow out the trapped water in the spark plug tubes. There was trapped water in all 6 tubes.

Should I get new rubber spark plug boots or just use Vaseline to make a water tight seal?

After I blew all the air out I let it air dry for a while before putting the coil packs back on. After I did that I disconnected the negative battery cable and installed my K&N intake and filter system that I was putting off until I had finished cleaning my engine.

After all done, I started the engine and it ran fine and this time no malfunction indicator light remained on during idle. Although I did not take it for a test drive yet, it should be fine. I'll know for sure tomorrow when I take it out.

It looks sweet with the K&N system on it and I like the way it sounds.

Thanks for your help!
User avatar
 #223248  by Brando26
 
I hope that fixes it and there is no long term damage to the coil packs. To be honest I have never heard of anyone getting water in the spark plug tubes... it just made sense. when you reinstalled the coil packs did you hear the vacuum seal noise when you pushed them into place? if not, you might need to replace the packs themselves. I dont know that the rubber on them is replaceable.
You didnt use high pressure water when you cleaned the engine did you?
User avatar
 #223262  by Bill Putney
 
bugauto wrote:...Should I get new rubber spark plug boots or just use Vaseline to make a water tight seal?...
If they visibly looked OK, they're probably OK. Probably there was no silicone grease put on the sealing points like should always be done with spark plug boots. I don't know if vaseline is safe for rubber parts - perhaps it is, but silicone (dielectric) gease is the substance of choice. Just a light coat at the sealing points - you're just trying to close up any seal; interruptions/air gaps that can transmit a spark to a nearby ground (or in your case, let water in).
 #223275  by tinman
 
Bill Putney wrote:
bugauto wrote:...Should I get new rubber spark plug boots or just use Vaseline to make a water tight seal?...
If they visibly looked OK, they're probably OK. Probably there was no silicone grease put on the sealing points like should always be done with spark plug boots. I don't know if vaseline is safe for rubber parts - perhaps it is, but silicone (dielectric) gease is the substance of choice. Just a light coat at the sealing points - you're just trying to close up any seal; interruptions/air gaps that can transmit a spark to a nearby ground (or in your case, let water in).
I agree with Bill's comments about adding the dielectric grease. The chances of water getting up to the top of your engine during normal use is practically nil unless you like to go through floods and whatnot. The dielectric grease is cheap for a can at NAPA or wherever.
 #223304  by bugauto
 
brando26 wrote:I hope that fixes it and there is no long term damage to the coil packs. To be honest I have never heard of anyone getting water in the spark plug tubes... it just made sense. when you reinstalled the coil packs did you hear the vacuum seal noise when you pushed them into place? if not, you might need to replace the packs themselves. I dont know that the rubber on them is replaceable.
You didnt use high pressure water when you cleaned the engine did you?
No I didn't hear a vacuum seal noise that I can recall. Some fit a bit snugger than others did. Visibly they looked good.

I didn't use a pressure washer but my garden hose turned all the way on high is quite high pressure. I don't know how much the coil packs are to replace them but when I go to replace my spark plugs with Bosch platinum 4's, I will use the dielectric grease to make a better seal on the tubes.
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 #223321  by Maximus
 
A coil pack is very expensive IICR....I never had to replace one but I looked it up once for the heck of it...
User avatar
 #223348  by Brando26
 
I think they're $35 from the yards.
User avatar
 #223429  by Maximus
 
I would not install a used coil pack if I could not help it. It might be a good idea to have a used one around in a pinch though.
 #223432  by bugauto
 
Hey guys I have some strange stuff going on now.

Now that I have my m back on the road and running I'm noticing oddities that I know I didn't notice before.

First of all let me sum up the things I have done to my m since these oddities started occurring.

1. Washed the engine
2. Blew out spark plug boots/tubes with compressed air
3. calibrated my AC system
4. disconnected battery
5. installed K&N intake/filter system

Now, here is something odd and I know I'm not imagining it, but the shifting is much stiffer than before. In most cases, I have to put a little muscle into shifting into drive or reverse. Could I have drenched something with the water hose when washing my engine and squirted the lube off the shift linkage? I'm just throwing that out there. I have no clue why it would be stiff now. It definitely was not stiff like this before I did the 5 steps above.

Something else I am noticing is the temp reading in the overhead panel. It seems to be reading accurate temp now, where as before it appeared to be way off of what the actual temp was. (BTW, is that for inside or outside temp reading?)

One last thing I am noticing is how the engine is performing. After my experience from the other day driving around with water inside my spark plug tubes which caused the malfunction indicator light to remain on and engine to run extremely rough, I am still noticing that the engine isn't quite running as good as it did before all that happened. Although it's not running extremely rough, I am noticing some slight hesitation and sputtering and slight rough idle mostly after it reaches normal operating temperature. Do you think the computer is just adjusting to the new air flow? Or do you think I still have water/condensation in the spark plug tubes?

Thanks for your help!
User avatar
 #223447  by miska_man
 
bugauto wrote:Hey guys I have some strange stuff going on now.

Now that I have my m back on the road and running I'm noticing oddities that I know I didn't notice before.

First of all let me sum up the things I have done to my m since these oddities started occurring.

1. Washed the engine
2. Blew out spark plug boots/tubes with compressed air
3. calibrated my AC system
4. disconnected battery
5. installed K&N intake/filter system

Now, here is something odd and I know I'm not imagining it, but the shifting is much stiffer than before. In most cases, I have to put a little muscle into shifting into drive or reverse. Could I have drenched something with the water hose when washing my engine and squirted the lube off the shift linkage? I'm just throwing that out there. I have no clue why it would be stiff now. It definitely was not stiff like this before I did the 5 steps above.

Something else I am noticing is the temp reading in the overhead panel. It seems to be reading accurate temp now, where as before it appeared to be way off of what the actual temp was. (BTW, is that for inside or outside temp reading?)

One last thing I am noticing is how the engine is performing. After my experience from the other day driving around with water inside my spark plug tubes which caused the malfunction indicator light to remain on and engine to run extremely rough, I am still noticing that the engine isn't quite running as good as it did before all that happened. Although it's not running extremely rough, I am noticing some slight hesitation and sputtering and slight rough idle mostly after it reaches normal operating temperature. Do you think the computer is just adjusting to the new air flow? Or do you think I still have water/condensation in the spark plug tubes?

Thanks for your help!
I'd just wait it out for a bit to see if the computer fixes the issue, but just quick double check that your new air intake is sealed up good and doesn't leak any air at the connections.
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 #223467  by Bill Putney
 
On the stiff shifting, I do know that the problems with the earlier year shifter cables was definitely water/corrosion related. You may have the earlier design cable, which lets water in. Once it gets corroded, the presence of water in it would certainly make it tighten up. I think for that you need a new cable - corrosion doesn't tend to get better, even if it dries out. If it does, then I would think the improvement would only be temporary until it grows some more.
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 #223473  by Brando26
 
Just to clarify, do you mean the transmission shifts harder, or do you mean it is harder to move the gear shift into place? If it is the second, what Bill said is a valid point. If it is the first, I would wait it out and let the computer do its learning process. After disconnecting the negative cable for a while the computer resets and has to relearn your driving style and reset its shift points.
The K&N intake will create some degree of effect on take off and might make it shift harder when you get on it.
I would replace the spark plugs with some NGK laser platinums since your previous plugs were well.. saturated with the one thing spark plugs shouldnt be saturated with.. water. While you have them out, look in the spark plug boot of the coil pack and see if they are corroded at all to rule that out.
User avatar
 #223474  by Bill Putney
 
brando26 wrote:Just to clarify, do you mean the transmission shifts harder, or do you mean it is harder to move the gear shift into place?...
From the following, I assumed the latter:
bugauto wrote:...but the shifting is much stiffer than before. In most cases, I have to put a little muscle into shifting into drive or reverse. Could I have drenched something with the water hose when washing my engine and squirted the lube off the shift linkage?...