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Has Your Evaporator Failed

1999 < 75k
4
4%
1999 > 75k
5
5%
1999 No
6
6%
2000 < 75k
1
1%
2000 > 75k
6
6%
2000 No
8
9%
2001 < 75k
1
1%
2001 > 75k
5
5%
2001 No
3
3%
2002 < 75k
3
3%
2002 > 75k
9
10%
2002 No
12
13%
2003 < 75k
1
1%
2003 > 75k
4
4%
2003 No
3
3%
2004 < 75k
1
1%
2004 > 75k
2
2%
2004 No
4
4%
Replaced Evaporator
11
12%
Did NOT Replace/ No A/C
5
5%
User avatar
 #231765  by mnitetrain
 
Anyone got some cheese twists?? Brownies??? Twinkies??
User avatar
 #231770  by YardleyBill
 
You know what other car I see driving around a lot with windows down? Volkswagens.
 #231779  by 85merk
 
well i bought a can to use for the weekend, because i'm not hitting the track 5hrs away without a/c this saturday :P
User avatar
 #231782  by YardleyBill
 
85merk wrote:well i bought a can to use for the weekend, because i'm not hitting the track 5hrs away without a/c this saturday :P
I was surprised my 2.5 hour trip to Carlisle wasn't as bad as I thought without the AC.

Though my hair looked like I had been electrocuted and I was half deaf from wind noise.

5 hours though ... much tougher.
User avatar
 #287316  by 300maximilien
 
Any new voters?
User avatar
 #287606  by mnitetrain
 
Mine went out, tried recharge just b4 Carlisle but didn't hold. Bobby and Jim volunteered for evap replacement. They had dash out/evap/dash back in about 4 hours but we broke a bolt and had to wait to find replacement. Hopefully we finish it tonite.

Over 700,000 miles on mine. Condensor was replaced when I took out a coyote few years back. Basiclly evacuate and recharge every two or three years is what I credit my long life experience to. Hopefully this Advance Auto evap will last me.......much better deal that dealer.
User avatar
 #287608  by Maximus
 
4 hours..... You guys are getting better and better....please post any new shortcuts for us.
User avatar
 #287614  by 300maximilien
 
No new shortcuts....just a 2 sets of hands that are extremely familiar with the procedure!
User avatar
 #287617  by FIREM
 
Well :x looks like I will join the crew that have to replace an evap. Pro Am A/C crapped out, recharged with dye, no obvious leaks yet but need to access the evap and inspect with UV light....
 #287618  by Shadowvox6
 
FIREM wrote:Well :x looks like I will join the crew that have to replace an evap. Pro Am A/C crapped out, recharged with dye, no obvious leaks yet but need to access the evap and inspect with UV light....
Found my EVAP leak with black light, dye in the drain tube.
User avatar
 #287621  by Bill Putney
 
shadowvox6 wrote:
FIREM wrote:Well :x looks like I will join the crew that have to replace an evap. Pro Am A/C crapped out, recharged with dye, no obvious leaks yet but need to access the evap and inspect with UV light....
Found my EVAP leak with black light, dye in the drain tube.
There ya go! To quote the robot in Short Circuit: "No disassemble" (at least to diagnose).
User avatar
 #287633  by Maximus
 
Im betting bob can change it out in 3.75 hours for a new record, in the spirt of the olympics.
User avatar
 #287634  by FIREM
 
No sign of dye at drain :ohwell (yet)
Aldata shows repair time of 6 hours
Doubt I will set any records but do not expect to spend all day Saturday on it either
 #287641  by isrb710
 
Mine seems to be good at 107K miles. Hope it stays that way. I believe it was garaged most of its life. Probably all but 2 years. There was a LOT of crud in the ventilation cowl when I bought the car - one of the first things I did was clean it out.

My evaporator was fairly clean when I inspected the intake side of the evaporator through the evaporator temperature sensor/cover. So my vote is the acid buildup eating through the fins/pipe when there's a lot of crud combined with the moisture that condenses on the fins. All the pictures I've seen here of failed evaps show the damage at the bottom - right where gravity piles up the crud!
 #287642  by isrb710
 
Here are the failure rates by year at the time I write this post. Looks like 2001 was a bad year for evaps! However, this is a fairly small sample.

1999 --> 4/9 = 44 % failure rate
2000 --> 3/8 = 38 % failure rate
2001 --> 4/5 = 80 % failure rate
2002 --> 3/10 = 30 % failure rate
2003 --> 2/5 = 40 % failure rate
2004 --> 1/4 = 25 % failure rate
 #287671  by Shadowvox6
 
FIREM wrote:No sign of dye at drain :ohwell (yet)
Aldata shows repair time of 6 hours
Doubt I will set any records but do not expect to spend all day Saturday on it either

I know someone that can do it in 4 hours....
User avatar
 #287676  by 02SilverSpecial
 
I have it down to about 4 hours. The hardest part is breaking open the hvac box and getting the dash out. It is NOT a 1 person job, one person on each side, wobble extensions for the upper dash bolts, and patients.

I need to replace my compressor. Swapped out the drier (Advance sent me the T83104, which is about 2 inches shorter than the 83104, so coolant flow was shortened) last night, and when we evacuated the system and refilled it, the low pressure port valve decided it wanted to see what the inside of the compressor looked like.... Long story short, the compressor (CENSORED) the bed... Now I have repalced the EVAP, drier(And will be replacing it again tomorrow), Compressor... Maybe I should just replace the condenser too(Just can't find one in stock!)
User avatar
 #287683  by Bill Putney
 
02SilverSpecial wrote:...I need to replace my compressor...when we evacuated the system and refilled it, the low pressure port valve decided it wanted to see what the inside of the compressor looked like...
When you replace the compressor, be aware that you *will* be re-using your old compressor head manifold - *no* replacement compressors (new, rebuilt, whatever) come with the mainfold on it even if the photos in the descriptions show them as being with one (called deceptive advertising). Telling you that so you are aware that you still have to get that port fixed. Get the cores (same part both ports) from O'Reilly's. The other stores (Advance, Autozone) except maybe NAPA don't carry them - they sell kits (Four Season, Sanpro) that supposedly contain the right ones, but they lie - it might take a little time to identify the right one at NAPA, however the right ones do have a distinctive appearance from all the others.

But here's where to get them: O'Reilly's - Murray brand part no. 59347 - $2-$3 ea.
(http://300mclub.org/forums/viewtopic.ph ... 23#p276423)

Image

(If you find the manifold is messed up (core threads mangled, or you can't get the remainder of the core out, or whatever), try to get a manifold from any junk yard 3.2/3.5 LH car.)

I might suggest getting the Denso brand new compressor from Advance (P/N 471-0266). With all these aftermarket companies changing names, disappearing, and popping back up with other names, etc., I felt more secure going with the Denso. They are listed but not stocked in Advance's system (the listing says "ordered from the factory"), so allow a week or so for it to come in.

I got my local Advance to knock the price down equivalent to an on-line discount code which brought the price down not too far from the unknown-brand-name-of-the-week brands (Tough One is this week's) - not sure if they all would do that or if it was manager's discretion. But I guess you could order it on line for home delivery with the discount codes and free shipping.
User avatar
 #287685  by mnitetrain
 
02SilverSpecial wrote:I have it down to about 4 hours. The hardest part is breaking open the hvac box and getting the dash out. It is NOT a 1 person job, one person on each side, wobble extensions for the upper dash bolts, and patients.

I need to replace my compressor. Swapped out the drier (Advance sent me the T83104, which is about 2 inches shorter than the 83104, so coolant flow was shortened) last night, and when we evacuated the system and refilled it, the low pressure port valve decided it wanted to see what the inside of the compressor looked like.... Long story short, the compressor (CENSORED) the bed... Now I have repalced the EVAP, drier(And will be replacing it again tomorrow), Compressor... Maybe I should just replace the condenser too(Just can't find one in stock!)
Was going to call and see how you made out, I guess you answered my question. Sorry to hear that. Need the guage set give me a holler and another pair of hands if you guys need.

Thanks again, mine is still blowing ice chunks.
 #287687  by Shadowvox6
 
Food for thought here....I now know that my High Speed Fan Relay was on the fritz for a while before my Evap decided to fail.
Maybe the pressure increase caused by improper cooling of the condenser lead to the failure of the Evap??